Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 13)

Since May 1st, 2023, I have been tackling a trek to Whaligoe Steps each and every day for six months thus far, on my personal challenge to witness and document the changing of the seasons and to understand better what it’s like living so close to an engineering feat set in a cliff on the coastline of Scotland.

My aim is to finally share with you, all three hundred and sixty five days of natural wonders and beauty which can be found in this rustic location.

This blog entry covers Monday, October 16th up to Sunday, October 29th, 2023…

Everything from a weather system called ‘Storm Babet’ to some beautiful sunrises and dramatic skies took place during this fortnight, as I went down and around Whaligoe Steps in Caithness. Not far from here is the most northerly tip of the U.K. mainland, and with the coldest sea on the planet as your neighbour, you can count on some interesting and breath-taking views from day to day.

Oct. 16th, 2023: Sightings of both the grey seal inspecting the coastline, and rabbits on top of Whaligoe Steps sunbathing in the glow of another sunrise greeted me this Monday I ventured outdoors…

Oct. 17th, 2023: I was up promptly to catch what I felt would be a wonderful sunrise, and was not alone. Visitors tackling their own journey also captured the sunrise on this particular Tuesday morning.

Oct. 18th, 2023: What a difference a day makes. After sharing a peaceful morning with strangers and discussing all manner of fascinating topics to a backdrop of a stunning sunrise, the following morning as you can see below, cast a cold and grey shadow over the North Sea and Whaligoe Steps.

Beatrice, the off-shore wind farm would have trembled if it too knew what was to come over the next few days…

Photographs of the shallow cave, and the unrest wielded by the tides of the North Sea.

Oct. 19th, 2023: Storm Babet, a weather system which showcased true ferocity in strong winds and remarkable waves.

An actual photograph taken of a North Sea wave climbing up a cliff which is around two hundred and fifty feet tall!!

In the aftermath of these few days of Storm Babet, the landscape has been physically changed in a few locations. The base of the Salt House has a little difference, as does the base of the landfall tucked away in the corner; plus on the pebble shores – bare rock can be seen which was once covered in shingle and small stones.

Oct. 20th, 2023: Storm Babet continued into the following day…

Trying to stand still in ferocious winds to take accurate and precise photographs is something I haven’t experienced to this degree before. Below you can see the top of the waterfall, but winds blew the water upwards into the air.

Dramatic liquid monsters carved shapes in the waves as the roar of wild energy filled the skies. It quite literally took my breath away and will be an experience I won’t forget for a long, long time.

I must reiterate that my thoughts for those who lost their lives during this devastating storm are in my mind. The impact of this weather system on some has been something I cannot fully imagine. Sincere condolences to those who have been severely effected.

Oct. 21st, 2023: Marked by some as ‘day 3’ of Storm Babet, the North Sea continued to growl and toss ‘n’ turn…

Here’s a link to my blog showing my experience over these days of the weather system – Storm Babet Vs. Whaligoe Steps – Whaligoe Eye

Oct. 22nd, 2023: What a relief to feel some sunshine as a battered sunrise found ways to ease fingers between clouds, and to tease open those dark grey skies and share some blue and gold…

Oct. 23rd, 2023: A beautiful and calm trek in which a proper assessment of landscape-related damage could be deciphered. Below you have a photograph of a relieved pebble shoreline.

Also, a tranquil sunrise bathes a background for some curly silhouettes to gently sway in the coastal breeze.

Oct. 24th, 2023: Striking colours shimmered on the surface of the sea. The waterfall was generous as it gifted the North Sea plenty of abundant rain water.

Oct. 25th, 2023: Gloomy yet exhilarating with prominent winds. The waterfall continued to flow but created new shapes due to the presence of the gusts.

Oct. 26th, 2023: Hypnotic beam of sunshine caught my eye during this particular Thursday trek down and around Whaligoe Steps. Getting a bird’s eye view of the off-shore wind farm known as Beatrice.

In the evening I noted the moon, so below you get to see it too.

Oct. 27th, 2023: Such fun was had when nature conspired with a hint of frivolity. Foam parties thanks to the build up of rough seas for several days.

Foam globules littered the lower two flights of Whaligoe Steps and standing beside the boat winch meant being a potential recipient to floating foamy companions! The name ‘foam-nado‘ was circulated on this day…

Oct. 28th, 2023: The autumn can be an unpredictable season, but one thing you can rely on is some rain and a drop in temperature. Silhouettes and wet ground were abundant companions.

Oct. 29th, 2023: Foam parties were the theme to unfold during this Sunday trek. To be honest, I hadn’t witnessed this much foam accumulating on the pebble shore like this on prior visits.

Waves were rife as my friend balanced on a rock only to be greeted by a foamy compliment.

As always, I look forward to sharing the next fortnight all going well.

This first six months have been amazing, full of new-to-me sightings and experiences. If things work out, I look forward to sharing the next six months with you and sharing a whole year of life down and around Whaligoe Steps with you.

The previous episode documenting my Whaligoe Steps 365 challenge can be viewed here – Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 12) – Whaligoe Eye

Thank you for your continued support and interest, it means a lot. Take care and know I’m sending you positive wishes only always.

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New Challenge (Part 6)

Thank you for your company and precious time as you join me for a trek down and around Whaligoe Steps every day for twelve months.

Yes, a way to capture a moment or moments for every day of the year in a location which boasts wildlife, beautiful wildflowers, rich coastal history and interesting characters – from May 1st, 2023 and hoping to eventually reach May 1st, 2024.

The photo of the moon above was a wonderful point as I glanced upwards during my morning trek on Monday, 10th of July, 2023. At that moment I had no idea what was going to transpire over the next fortnight and what would end up being published in this next chapter, sharing the world down and around Whaligoe Steps.

The last four days from Wednesday, the 19th of July, 2023 to Saturday, 22nd of July, 2023… The time of year for visiting Whaligoe Steps is well and truly upon us. I’ll explain why I’m sharing this abundance in traffic here in the tranquil landscape of Caithness in a moment as I share each day from the 10th of July to the 23rd of July during my attempt at walking down and around the ‘Steps for a whole year. Suffice to say that a lot of traffic descending on an area which was designed for a handful of residents is going to have some sort of fallout.

July 10th, 2023: During a mild sunrise on this specific Monday morning, all seemed calm. Jackdaw spotted surveying the scenery from a fence post.

Much later in the day, during the evening I observed plenty of boats moving around on the North Sea from Whaligoe Steps. This cruise liner I believe is German.

July 11th, 2023: During my trek in the morning I negotiated a drizzly beginning of the day. Sadly, things got worse when I arrived home in the evening to find my outer wall had been destroyed (again!) I believe the security camera image in the middle shows someone who may know a lot about how my wall was knocked down.

The reason why I leapt in and made a website called WhaligoeEye.co.uk was because nobody was doing anything about the large volume of visitors to the area. The infrastructure was designed for the residential area and is maintained by the Highland Council. Due to the significant increase in traffic and presence of people, my outer wall has been knocked down twice now, I’ve nearly been run over, and many other examples you can imagine living with such a situation have taken place.

It’s very stressful living here, yet also very beautiful too.

July 12th, 2023: I found the trek the following morning rather cathartic. Cloudy and calm, wet and wild.

July 13th, 2023: Cliff face which overlooks the Whaligoe Steps. It is roughly 250 feet up from the North Sea. The other photograph shows that despite being just over eight miles from the mainland coastline, the Beatrice wind farm is still quite visible.

July 14th, 2023: During this month I noticed the razorbills and guillemots had departed this bit of the northern Scottish coastline, and also how the young shags were keen to spread their wings and move further out to sea. Despite the abundant wildflowers starting to disappear from view, there were still splashes of colour to find among the vibrant green shades.

July 15th, 2023: I stumbled across a dandelion which was alone, yet full of life. As my trek on that particular Saturday morning continued, I found myself on the far side looking across at the slim but steady waterfall. Sir Billy Connolly made a joke about the waterfall back in the 90s, saying something akin to “It’s the only waterfall I’ve seen that goes up the way!”

July 16th, 2023: Mustn’t forget about the wild rabbits around here. Also on Whaligoe Steps when the rain has been busy, you may see plenty of snails lurking along the verges. In this instant, I witnessed one actually negotiating the Whaligoe Steps. I’m not a snail expert but I pride myself on being an individual who keeps learning all the time. After some research, I believe the snail is a white-lipped snail (Capaea hortensis).

July 17th, 2023: Local resident moggy, Star, is a welcome companion, but since May 1st, 2023 when I took it upon myself to try out this challenge, the singing wren has also been most enjoyable. In full song in the photograph below. Also, wearing a delicate coat of raindrops and possibly dew too, a wild rose which grows right alongside a flight of the ‘Steps.

July 18th, 2023: Below is an example of the young shags getting more courageous and venturing further out within the North Sea. At this time of entering my blog, I can say that this morning I only witnessed three lone young shags on a rocky island. Maybe the others have now left?

The other photograph is a moment where the the gushing water right at the top of Whaligoe Steps is approaching the point where it descends down the cliff face. If you look at July 15th, that’s the point where the water just drops into the North Sea, but just before that point you can see the momentum as it negotiates the wild flora.

July 19th, 2023: A slightly wet and gloomy Wednesday morning trek which provided me with a fabulous opportunity to photograph a great black-backed gull quite closely. Also, during a muted sunrise, I noticed how the fire speckled artistically behind some wild vegetation.

July 20th, 2023: The sunrise on the morning of the 20th here at Whaligoe Steps was delightful. The rabbits certainly enjoyed it as they were out and about with a flurry.

July 21st, 2023: During these later days of July I’ve noticed the newer thistles bursting into flower and looking rather striking at the top of the ‘Steps. The other photograph is of a gull chick. They’re becoming more courageous too and seem to be growing up at a hasty rate.

July 22nd, 2023: The remaining boat winch has a presence here at Whaligoe Steps. There was at least one other back in the day, when this was a bustling harbour during the successful herring fisheries.

Mayweed has stayed true as the daffodils and other flowers have gone over. This large daisy-looking wildflower really provides the environment with some personality.

July 23rd, 2023: This very morning (Sunday, when I’m assembling this blog for you), the sunrise was very curious. Cloud formations made the light fierce in one specific part of the sky. As it settled, I then witnessed it glisten on the surface of the North Sea ripples.

There you have it, another fortnight of moments captured on each of the days from the 10th of July, to the 23rd of July, 2023.

If you’re wondering about my outer wall, the question is really about whether it’s worthwhile spending money and time getting it rebuilt (again) only for another visitor to crash into it? If you’re new to this story, then let me also remind you that the Highland Council relatively recently advised they were investing £90,000 in expanding the residential car park here which will most certainly make a difference.

The sooner they can get on with the job in hand, the better for my mental health.

I’ll sign off with positive wishes and gratitude to you and yours, until the next fortnight when I hope to continue my challenge incorporating images from each and every day. Maybe more boats from the coastline, or stunning views, wonderful wildlife, breath-taking beauty, stories of adventure?

Take care and be safe.

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First Anniversary…

Star…

“Thank you” is the obvious place to start after battling illness in recent weeks, and receiving some welcome kind wishes and sentiment on a return to action. “Thank you” is also for the generosity of time you share when reading the blogs, visiting the social media platforms, signing up to a newsletter, participating in the ‘Postcards’ section of this humble website, and for being You.

I had low expectations when I began this venture in August, last year, due to the life we all find ourselves living. We’re all too busy to be looking at nature themed photography, or reading about community developments, or learning bits of history. But here we are, twelve months in to something which is named “Whaligoe Eye”.

August 23rd, 2022…

On August 1st, 2022, I posted a blog which contained general updates on various points of interest taking place here around Whaligoe Steps. Watch Your Step… – Whaligoe Eye

One specific aspect in that blog entry regarding the state of the single access lane to the residential carpark and the carpark itself was raised with examples of pot-holes. For those who are interested, the pot-holes have been filled in by the Highland Council. I was reliably informed that the Council Ranger was the individual who took care of these. Many thanks. Here are some photos…

Remaining in theme that this blog entry is a celebration of twelve months deciphering the ownership and maintenance, uploading and use of a website in conjunction with learning about nature and a whole host of other elements which go in to this project, it is also a chance to recognise the Highland Council have stepped up to provide a yellow grit bin for icy conditions (located in the residential carpark), a rubbish bin for the litter situation (also located at the residential carpark) and have now filled in pot-holes. So “Thank you” to all who had a part to play in these welcome additions to the Whaligoe Steps area.

Reflecting over this first year which has really flown by like a seagull swooping in the air, there have been some beautiful natural moments documented and captured. Here’s a shameless gallery for your perusal.

There was a prize giveaway late last year which was fun and a newsletter subscriber was selected at random and received this in the post.

Well, the good news is that it’s happening again! I am currently preparing prizes and if you’re an individual who signed up to receive a newsletter or if you’re a follower on Facebook, then keep your eyes peeled over the next few weeks as developments take place for a celebratory freebie giveaway.

Going to share a gallery of wildflowers which I photographed over recent months around Whaligoe Steps.

Over the past year since Whaligoe Eye began, I’ve slowly been adding content to the ‘Postcards’ section where visitors are kind enough to have their photograph taken during a visit to Whaligoe Steps;

the ‘Nature’ section is constantly being updated with new images (which reminds me, I have plenty of new ones to add!);

there’s been blogs about congestion and highlighting the situation of an unsuitable infrastructure here for visitors and residents alike;

a prize giveaway; coverage of a seal puppy encounter;

updates on traffic incidents; updates about an animal rescue attempt; updates on stonemasonry on the first three flights of Whaligoe Steps thanks to Charles Juhlenski;

Stonemason, Charles Juhlenski

coverage throughout June of my ’30 Days Wild’ (an initiative inspired by the Wildlife Trust in understanding and appreciation of our natural world); a little hint of the wealth of historical content (much more to come!); plus on social media some frivolity with Easter, Halloween and Christmas…

All going well, I’m buckling up for the next twelve months to continue posting blogs, adding images to ‘Postcards’ and ‘Nature’ plus making a concerted effort to get this historical content I’ve been researching and reading, to you in some form via WhaligoeEye.co.uk

The issue thankfully is not having the lack of content to share, it is merely juggling the time and resources to share it with you. A blessing in disguise.

The learning curve never ends.

Take care for now, stay safe and sending you positive wishes.

August 20th, 2022…

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Pebble Shore Baby (Part 2)

Nearest pebble shoreline, photo taken on 28/12/2021

To recap and continue my tale of the grey seal pup encounter, I was blessed with thirteen days of dropping by and capturing video clips and photographs of an ever-evolving baby grey seal. It was left quite naturally as it turns out, on the nearest of the three indents which can sometimes be accessed once down the Whaligoe Steps.

Part of the physical changes witnessed included some evident moulting. I took a photo of a makeshift base which the baby seal inhabited for long durations. There were clumps of fur rolling in the breeze or littering the pebbles. It felt a little coarse if small amounts were held in the hand, but if you were fortunate enough to clench a large amount of baby seal fur, it felt a lot softer.

Photograph of baby seal fur during the thirteen days it lived on the pebble shore

Via social media, someone asked whether I was feeding it or perhaps pondering over any interaction with the pebble shore baby. For those who are curious, I let Mother Nature take its proverbial course and only monitored the grey seal pup. I maintained a safe distance and I found myself quietly observing most of the time, except if I slipped or stepped in mud or water. On those occasions I might have let out a spontaneous grumble!

Baby seal enjoying a rock pool

According to what I have learned, baby seals can forage and eat anything from crustaceans, small fish and I saw a mention of seabirds! I only witnessed the little fellow playing with various sorts of immediate seaweed during its stay here at Whaligoe Steps. But don’t trust my research, there are many articles and books on the subject. The RSPB have this online article for example: Seal Pups in the UK | See The Baby Seals This Winter – The RSPB

Baby grey seal exploring rock pools along the rim of the north sea

A book which I am proud to say has been ordered thanks to two recommendations I received, is called “An Amazing Adventure: The Story of a Grey Seal Pup” by Ken Crossan. I might well add a reaction via social media once I get a copy and have digested the content, but all recommendations were of a positive note.

Baby grey seal pup on the move here at Whaligoe Steps during December, 2021

Within the thirteen days I had the privilege of monitoring the baby seal, I witnessed the coat turn from a clean white to eventually a grey shade. The head was the first evident physical change although tufts of the fur were sticking up and there was moulting occurring on its torso. It was a rapid physical transition with subtle changes being evident on each visit I made.

Baby seal at Whaligoe Steps during December, 2021

I will share an anecdote with you. On the 21st of December, before the baby seal departed its temporary base here, I was keeping an eye on life at Whaligoe Steps as usual. There was a visit from a couple who seemed to be in a whimsical and adventurous mood. We mumbled pleasantries in passing and that was it.

My instincts were alerted by their body language, so being of a protective mood at the time, I waited a little longer than I had initially anticipated.

With a wee glance from the bink area, I noticed the couple had made their way right passed the camouflaged pebble shore baby! I recall making a mental note to myself how utterly efficient the camouflage of the baby seal was.

Those visitors consumed by the view of a tempting north sea, were not a great distance from where the pup was situated. Yet as the female burst into song and made howling noises out loud, relishing the subtle echo which emanated from the location, the two of them were completely oblivious that a baby seal was taking in their performance!

I watched nervously as it moved its head pondering on what the noise was all about and who on earth these two visitors were. Thankfully, the noise was the only disturbance I believe they made.

Clip of the grey seal pup finding the body of a dead young puffin for the first time

After thirteen days of ascending and descending the Whaligoe Steps checking on the baby seal and other general activities, I found myself juggling bittersweet emotions when on the last visit I noticed the grey seal pup had gone. I was thrilled that it had survived and ventured finally into the cold waters of the north sea, but simultaneously I felt like a wild unspoken bond between different species of mammal was at an abrupt end.

If you would permit a moment of sentimentality, I really deeply miss the fellow. I made a sighting on the day after it had moved on (24th of December, 2021). Was it one of the other grey seals, or was it the pup gradually getting further and further out to sea?

Grey seal sighting on 24/12/2021

Thank you for your continued support on the various online locations you can find “Whaligoe Eye”, and for those who took the plunge and subscribed to this website. I am working on the second ‘newsletter’ which will include the name of the winner of my first ever giveaway, plus information about this thirteen day experience with the grey seal pup, and will include a couple of other bits ‘n’ bobs.

One of the last photographs I took before it left the pebble shore for the north sea

If you enjoyed this blog post, then feel free to subscribe via this website using the online form, or if you prefer you can find “Whaligoe Eye” on FACEBOOK: Whaligoe Eye – Home | Facebook

“Whaligoe Eye” can be found on TWITTER: Whaligoe Eye (@WhaligoeEye) / Twitter or my own TWITTER account: Gary (@floodland08) / Twitter

I also upload video clips to YOUTUBE: Whaligoe Eye – YouTube

The next blog post I have in the wings, is simply a summary and recap of what “Whaligoe Eye” has developed in to thus far.

Remember, “Whaligoe Eye” made its debut during the middle of August, 2021, due to the lack of any movement by the local Highland Council addressing how dangerous life had become living here, and for those visiting Whaligoe Steps too. For example, a near miss as a resident was exiting the front door of their home, a wall knocked down, consistent congestion and a car park with no facilities, and inadequate spacing, etc.

The local infrastructure is not currently deemed a priority and as a consequence when busy, there is legitimate cause for concern regarding not only further property damage, but significant hindrance regarding emergency vehicle access amongst other health and safety concerns.

Peek-a-boo!

As the New Year looms prominently (at the time of assembling this blog post), I wish you all a contented and safe 2022.

Thanks again for everything, take care and be safe.

Thank You

People are an integral ingredient when it comes to life here at Whaligoe Steps. You would find on a visit to this location an immediate neighbourhood comprising of six households in total situated near or around the residential car park. These people live here and go about their daily business.

Photograph taken in September, 2019

Thinking about the Whaligoe Steps, you have those people passing through (visitors) and you have people in the responsible roles of decision-making, who are at the time of this blog post attempting to negotiate the best strategy to improve the infrastructure and empower a positive experience for the visitors and residents alike.

Tourism Committee Meeting – September 29th, 2021

I sat through two and a half hours of a meeting regarding the topic of tourism in the Highlands of Scotland, with decision-makers saying how impressive they had been so far in relation to tackling the evident surge and overwhelming arrival of visitors to varying popular destinations.

Nobody related to this significant meeting had reached out to me or anyone I know who is directly connected to the Whaligoe Steps, so it is with pure good luck (and continued humble thanks to Margaret Meek from the “NC500 The Land Weeps”) that I can now share my more informed thoughts on developments.

The committee were smitten with their campaign of communication with communities and visitors but as I sit here, after emails were sent to all members of the Council Ward: 03 – Wick and East Caithness, only Councillor Jill Tilt has made overtures of interest and enthusiasm toward understanding what local people perceive to be improvements to the infrastructure. It was very much appreciated and I wish to share a humble THANK YOU.

Councillor Jill Tilt in her capacity as a new member to the Council Ward visited me today to better gain insight to the logistics for residents and visitors negotiating the access and car parking. This Councillor is the only one to have sent a reply to my initial email, and I have to say that I was thoroughly impressed with her approach which was both professional and sympathetic.

Due to various reasons, Willie Mackay did not email me but has dropped by in person to visit the Whaligoe Steps where it was evident he was assessing the location. Not one syllable has been sent my way from Andrew Sinclair (emailed on the 29th of August) or Raymond Bremner (emailed on the 1st of September) who are the other two Councillors for this Ward.

I like to dwell if at all possible on positive aspects that go on behind the scenes. With this in mind and if you’re happy to indulge me I would love to share my gratitude to the many individuals who have made this new “Whaligoe Eye” experience so rewarding.

I mentioned the good lady earlier, but THANK YOU to Margaret Meek once again as without her experience in matters relating to infrastructure and politics, I would have still been twirling about like a lost sheep!

This website has grown so much in just six weeks and one section I really enjoy sharing is the “Postcards” area. The above photograph is a memory of an encounter with visitors who spent some time talking and listening and it is merely one example. They were lovely strangers to meet, and what a location to meet new people!

Holding a camera and capturing a moment out to sea, this visitor managed to negotiate seaweed and slippery pebbles and made it look easy! His fiancée stood watching from a distance and the two of them were so kind and interested in the area.

I would like to say THANK YOU to George Walker for emailing and sharing his photography of the Whaligoe Steps, and his advice relating to the art of photography. If you have a moment, check out georgewalkerphotography.co.uk

I have received quite a few emails in recent weeks and I know some of you would rather I did not mention you by name, but this is a THANK YOU for your feedback regarding all manner of aspects connected to Whaligoe Eye.

Here are some overdue moments of gratitude to some folk who I emailed a few weeks ago regarding quotes for a future piece I am working on…

THANK YOU to Catherine over at Where To Stay, Eat, Shop & Explore, Highlands Of Scotland (truehighlands.com)

THANK YOU to Susan over at A Highland Blend – | Promoting the north Highlands of Scotland

THANK YOU to Tim over at Scotland Off the Beaten Track – An honest travel guide to the best of Scotland (sobt.co.uk)

Before I go, here is a bit of fun I had with some art-based software. I had an old photograph of Whaligoe Steps which I played with…

THANK YOU for your time and as always, take care and be safe.

Small Car Park and Limited Access…

All those familiar with this local area and since the upturn in numbers of visitors to the Whaligoe Steps, agree that currently as I type this blog entry the car park is not fit for purpose. It has been this way for about the last four years.

Designed originally to host vehicles relating to residents – whether they be for the residents themselves, health reason related visits, commerce or extended friends and family, the car park now hosts mostly tourists. Being objective, it does make a difference what time the visit takes place, but it is still a major disruption worthy of note. More blogs in the future about this.

The examples below give you an insight in to the little lane which is the only access to the parking facilities currently.

Campervans and cars, occasionally convoys of cars and campervans, and also vehicles pulling trailers pass the row of resident buildings which run adjacent to it. The little lane and car park are simply not designed for this consistent volume of traffic.

Thanks for your time, take care and be safe.

Photo taken on August 15th, 2021
Visitors trying to negotiate full car park and getting stuck in the little resident’s lane