Tag: Caithness

In passing when I’ve been talking with visitors to Whaligoe Steps, I occasionally get asked about what it is like living here during the winter season. Looking through my photographs of Whaligoe Steps taken over the years, I didn’t find any really good ones which showcased a visual for the winter season.

Today, I corrected the oversight as I watched hail, sleet and gentle snow flurries grace the landscape from the evening of January 3rd, continuing intermittently throughout the morning of the 4th.

Take my hand as we tentatively negotiate the slippery Steps from the top down to the Bink…

It was a little slippery underfoot, as the descent took place accompanied by a light breeze and a crispy cold ambience.

On this specific trek over the snow covered steps, I noticed how prominent the presence of the winter covering was on the higher flights than the sets of steps further down. Remember, there are six flights of steps which zig-zag down the cliff face making up the Whaligoe Steps.

The north sea gets darker with the wintery weather and provides a pleasant contrast on the eye.

These sets of Whaligoe Steps were given a makeover by the Stonemason Charles Juhlenski during several months of 2021…

As the fourth flight of Whaligoe Steps (photograph directly above this text) reaches its end, at the time of the blog post the steps are in a precarious state of disrepair with some specific examples now wobbling significantly. (Please be aware if you read this at the time of the blog post being published for obvious safety reasons).

At this stage of my descent, I noticed how the north sea breeze and perhaps the shelter from the landscape were disrupting the snow from settling as much.

We made it! The Bink welcomes us after we cautiously trekked down the Whaligoe Steps…

To recap and continue my tale of the grey seal pup encounter, I was blessed with thirteen days of dropping by and capturing video clips and photographs of an ever-evolving baby grey seal. It was left quite naturally as it turns out, on the nearest of the three indents which can sometimes be accessed once down the Whaligoe Steps.

Part of the physical changes witnessed included some evident moulting. I took a photo of a makeshift base which the baby seal inhabited for long durations. There were clumps of fur rolling in the breeze or littering the pebbles. It felt a little coarse if small amounts were held in the hand, but if you were fortunate enough to clench a large amount of baby seal fur, it felt a lot softer.

Via social media, someone asked whether I was feeding it or perhaps pondering over any interaction with the pebble shore baby. For those who are curious, I let Mother Nature take its proverbial course and only monitored the grey seal pup. I maintained a safe distance and I found myself quietly observing most of the time, except if I slipped or stepped in mud or water. On those occasions I might have let out a spontaneous grumble!

According to what I have learned, baby seals can forage and eat anything from crustaceans, small fish and I saw a mention of seabirds! I only witnessed the little fellow playing with various sorts of immediate seaweed during its stay here at Whaligoe Steps. But don’t trust my research, there are many articles and books on the subject. The RSPB have this online article for example: Seal Pups in the UK | See The Baby Seals This Winter – The RSPB

A book which I am proud to say has been ordered thanks to two recommendations I received, is called “An Amazing Adventure: The Story of a Grey Seal Pup” by Ken Crossan. I might well add a reaction via social media once I get a copy and have digested the content, but all recommendations were of a positive note.

Within the thirteen days I had the privilege of monitoring the baby seal, I witnessed the coat turn from a clean white to eventually a grey shade. The head was the first evident physical change although tufts of the fur were sticking up and there was moulting occurring on its torso. It was a rapid physical transition with subtle changes being evident on each visit I made.

I will share an anecdote with you. On the 21st of December, before the baby seal departed its temporary base here, I was keeping an eye on life at Whaligoe Steps as usual. There was a visit from a couple who seemed to be in a whimsical and adventurous mood. We mumbled pleasantries in passing and that was it.

My instincts were alerted by their body language, so being of a protective mood at the time, I waited a little longer than I had initially anticipated.

With a wee glance from the bink area, I noticed the couple had made their way right passed the camouflaged pebble shore baby! I recall making a mental note to myself how utterly efficient the camouflage of the baby seal was.

Those visitors consumed by the view of a tempting north sea, were not a great distance from where the pup was situated. Yet as the female burst into song and made howling noises out loud, relishing the subtle echo which emanated from the location, the two of them were completely oblivious that a baby seal was taking in their performance!

I watched nervously as it moved its head pondering on what the noise was all about and who on earth these two visitors were. Thankfully, the noise was the only disturbance I believe they made.

After thirteen days of ascending and descending the Whaligoe Steps checking on the baby seal and other general activities, I found myself juggling bittersweet emotions when on the last visit I noticed the grey seal pup had gone. I was thrilled that it had survived and ventured finally into the cold waters of the north sea, but simultaneously I felt like a wild unspoken bond between different species of mammal was at an abrupt end.

If you would permit a moment of sentimentality, I really deeply miss the fellow. I made a sighting on the day after it had moved on (24th of December, 2021). Was it one of the other grey seals, or was it the pup gradually getting further and further out to sea?

Thank you for your continued support on the various online locations you can find “Whaligoe Eye”, and for those who took the plunge and subscribed to this website. I am working on the second ‘newsletter’ which will include the name of the winner of my first ever giveaway, plus information about this thirteen day experience with the grey seal pup, and will include a couple of other bits ‘n’ bobs.

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The next blog post I have in the wings, is simply a summary and recap of what “Whaligoe Eye” has developed in to thus far.

Remember, “Whaligoe Eye” made its debut during the middle of August, 2021, due to the lack of any movement by the local Highland Council addressing how dangerous life had become living here, and for those visiting Whaligoe Steps too. For example, a near miss as a resident was exiting the front door of their home, a wall knocked down, consistent congestion and a car park with no facilities, and inadequate spacing, etc.

The local infrastructure is not currently deemed a priority and as a consequence when busy, there is legitimate cause for concern regarding not only further property damage, but significant hindrance regarding emergency vehicle access amongst other health and safety concerns.

As the New Year looms prominently (at the time of assembling this blog post), I wish you all a contented and safe 2022.

Thanks again for everything, take care and be safe.

Here in the Highlands of Scotland we are blessed with some majestic views, vibrant wildlife, and a hardened lifestyle dwelling within Mother Nature’s ever-changing frame. This website was a springboard to bring attention to the precarious and evidently inadequate infrastructure at Whaligoe Steps, which at the time of this blog entry still exists sadly. But as the months roll by, this humble website has become something more.

I am constantly humbled by not only the feedback from individuals who visit the website, but also the steep learning curve of learning. With an abundance of wildlife on my doorstep so to speak, I am consistently digesting new-to-me information about the various species which consider the environment their home.

Check out the “Nature” section of this website if you get a spare moment: Nature – Whaligoe Eye

In previous blog posts, I have been bouncing with joy over the many sightings of grey seals. Since the start of August, one seal was spotted. Then two seals. Finally my over-zealous excitement burst with the most heart-warming enthusiasm when a third seal was sighted in the waters of the north sea here.

During the many regular treks down Whaligoe Steps it became apparent that one of the grey seals was huge! Unnervingly so as it happens. Whispers amongst those who knew of this were suspecting a pregnancy. After some rapid research, the time of year being October of 2021, it all felt like something special was going to unfold.

On the 10th of December, I found myself melancholy at the state of the nearest pebble shore at Whaligoe Steps. The previous nights had seen storms of significant power batter the coastline, and with such weather arrived a collection of plastic-related pollution, plus some heavy timber. One item caught my eye. It looked to be a white plastic bag or flimsy container which moved. There was a breeze, so it was totally plausible.

On closer inspection, I discovered the white object was in fact a living, breathing grey seal pup! As I share this with you, I cannot articulate sufficiently what this meant to me. My instinctive panic to what may befall such a beautiful example of Mother Nature if visitors from afar were to unintentionally harm or alarm it, or in cases I have seen via articles on seal clubbing or abuse to such native coastline wildlife which was intentional and thoughtless, took hold of my thoughts.

Due to the significant levels of visitors which travel here these days, and despite the crisp cold air of December where once upon a time local people would not see anyone, there are still people who frequent this area. I became almost maternal in my protective ways, and those residents who knew of its existence also adopted an unspoken veil of secrecy regarding the arrival of this pebble shore baby.

I checked out the RSPCA website and even tried to phone them as I was caught up in my woes for the safety of such a wild, yet young grey seal: Seal Pup Found Alone | RSPCA

Apparently after further reading, the Mum nurtures and brings up the newly born pup for about a month before setting it free on a nearby beach or shoreline. The seal pup will then be at the mercy of its own instincts and the environment in which it evolves for about two weeks or so. During this time the seal pup is learning about the relationship with the sea, food and protein, and everything else you can imagine when a living species enters its habitat.

There were days when the seal pup would do very little in the way of movement as it conserved energy. It gave off a serene ambience whilst absorbing all around with those beautiful large dark orbs. In the video clips above you may note how the fur is beginning to change. Within the thirteen days I was gifted the opportunity of monitoring and observing it, the physical changes which transpired were remarkable.

I mentioned the plastic pollution that washed up around the same time the grey seal pup made its grand entrance on the pebble shore. The photograph below was taken during an impressive clearance of the larger and potentially more hazardous items which were briefly in close proximity to the pup.

I will share with you some more of my personal experience with this adorable example of the wildlife which graces the shores here in the United Kingdom. Be patient with me as I need to forage amongst my documented footage and photographs to find out which ones are the finest, and then treat them so they are appropriate to be uploaded. Part 2 will be posted in the next day or so as I juggle the Festive period and all that comes with such traditions.

Many thanks for dropping by, it is appreciated.

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Take care and be safe.

Since the beginning of the 90s, I can recall experiencing the sharp glare emanating from the gradual assent of the sun from Whaligoe Steps. It is a wonderful sight and reminder of the serene beauty of nature itself. Lost in my thoughts at various times of the early morning whilst poised on the Bink (grassy platform which greets you once you have descended the Steps), I have surveyed the grand expanse of the north sea right to the horizon, only to be dazzled quite literally by the harsh intensity of the sun.

I thought to myself how bright and beautiful it would be to collate some images of the various sunrises in recent months and slot them in here, as a blog entry. So if you have a spare moment, sit with me, put on your sunglasses and witness some moments I have captured of some sunrises. Not only the start of a new day, but in this instance the beginning of a new blog post.

The clip above was one of my first ever attempts utilising a “hyperlapse” feature I was shown by some friendly visitors to Whaligoe Steps. By accident I observed a grey seal head bobbing on the surface of the sea during the filming of this unfolding moment and if you look carefully, you’ll notice it go from the left side to the right.

“Metal Orchids Bathed in Gold”

Flowering energy, rotation so bold

powering synergy to a canvas of gold

Beatrice standing tall on horizon so still

caught in sunrise that defies my will

Metallic orchids rise up tall in silhouette

reminding of their grace and industrial concept

Bathing in changing waters so deep

ascending the sky like steps so steep

Reflected liquid mirror shines too

not overshadowed by the view

From Whaligoe Steps I can clearly see

your beauty unfold before me

Some more photographs that have been taken of various sunrises since August to now…

Many thanks for your time, take care and stay safe.

If you like this blog post, then feel free to look around WhaligoeEye.co.uk as content is being added as and when time permits. There is an online form where you can subscribe if you wish.

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I went down the Whaligoe Steps not once, but twice, which may not sound unusual considering I live here. But when you discover that I was dressed up in a boiler suit, put on a pair of steel toe-capped boots and was wearing a claustrophobic mask you may ponder why would I do such a thing?! Well, it is Halloween and I can be over-zealous when caught in a moment, plus in this example I had indulged in a movie franchise binge and found my over-active imagination stimulated to unhealthy proportions.

In recent months behind the scenes there has been plenty of researching, note-taking and general mischief and merriment to make even a pirate blush, and the results of these eye-opening activities will be surfacing in one form or another during the ever-anticipated and unfolding future. But for now I wanted to share with you a fascinating mystery. I felt the essence of this mystery bid a salute to this time of year, which is the spooky and creepy event some regard as Halloween.

It was the 14th of July, 1848, and a Whaligoe fisherman out on the ocean waves along the coastline here at Caithness, vanished aboard his fishing boat whilst seeking out a herring catch to make the most hardy of competitors sweat with jealousy. Nothing was ever found or deduced in relation to his disappearance apart from his bonnet floating eerily on the surface of the sea. The crew which consisted of his two sons had no account worthy of substance as to the reason why this local man simply disappeared without warning or notice. Their unanimous account rallied the narrative of waking up and finding that Donald Miller had simply vanished without trace during the night.

Mr. Miller’s Brother Alexander, was also regarded as a local Whaligoe fisherman, and lived in Pulteneytown which is located around seven miles away. On the evening of the 11th of December, 1856, what was later identified as his hat was discovered onboard a boat called the “Rambler”, but there was quite literally no sign or sound of the man himself. It appeared that on this fateful late hour, Mr. Alexander Miller had simply vanished without any trace leaving only his hat as a signature of existence.

Curious tales of disappearance, a mystery wrapped up in an enigma. To this day as I sit here after stumbling across these two moments of curiosity; eight years apart but both showcasing a disappearance with no satisfactory conclusion and leaving behind their hats – I think this is a worthy blog entry on the day of Hallows Eve…

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.

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The building which still stands on the bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps is nothing more than a ghost of what it used to be. The architecture of what is standing today shares with the witness a potential of what once was and hints at the industry which took place over a century prior.

The remains of this old building are the remnants of a time when the herring fisheries were rife and full of activity and industry. It was used as a salt house or curing house and had several names and uses during its prime. Fish that were brought in to this modest and rustic commercial port would be gutted and packed, protected within salt to last their journey. Once this process was finished, the fish were ready to be transported seven miles northwards to the main area of operations, the coastal town of Wick.

A John O’Groat Journal newspaper article dated back in 1838 mentioned the curing stations in both Whaligoe and Clyth had been completely destroyed during snow storms that lasted about eight weeks. The author of the article also exclaimed how important the two curing houses were and had no doubt they would be rebuilt so they could withstand such weather conditions in the future.

Despite the building being fairly sturdy, danger lurked around the corner. For example, in 1853 a woman was killed by falling rock whilst she packed herring in a barrel. A year later, more rocks were falling from the cliff above around the area where women were packing the fish. Two fishermen attempted to make the situation safer by knocking away loose and dangerous overhanging coastal sections due to the evident prospect of more fatalities, but were sadly placed in the Sheriff’s Court for “wanton and malicious mischief”. This was due to the results of their endeavours damaging the Whaligoe Steps and a curing bench.

At the very beginning of August, 2021, I saw a seal down at Whaligoe Steps. Naturally I felt thrilled with this observation but would not dare to hope that it would become a resident. Over the many years, sightings of seal at Whaligoe Steps have been fairly regular and commonplace, so to guess that this latest sighting would be something special was a little too much to hope for.

To my utter glee and astonishment this sighting of a solitary seal was just the beginning of a new chapter for me and my wildlife observations. Undertaking my trusty research I found out that both harbour seals and grey seals were not unusual to these coastline regions, but the more common sighting and presence belongs to the grey seal.

Two grey seals were sighted a few weeks later which has filled me with real enthusiasm that they could well be here to stay! At the time of this blog entry, October 17th, 2021, I can honestly say that regular sightings of a third grey seal has sealed the deal that at least for a while, Whaligoe Steps has resident grey seals which are putting on a beautiful natural display for the visitors.

Thanks to The Wildlife Trust I can remind you that grey seals are protected in Britain under the Conservation of Seals Act 1970 and the Marine (Scotland) Act 2010. Grey seal | The Wildlife Trusts

According to OneKindPlanet – Animal Facts, Education & Inspiration the grey seal is the largest land breeding mammal you will find in the United Kingdom. When out seal-watching I can safely say the statistics regarding their activity is accurate too as the grey seal can remain underwater for around fifteen to sixteen minutes, but more often surface after anywhere from five to ten minutes.

Despite the tourist season normally being all over by now, the visitors to Whaligoe Steps remain steadfast. Even today as I stood watching the seals going about their business, I observed many individuals wrapped up warm in various Winter-themed attire coming and going.

The seal stone that was hidden at Whaligoe Steps on October the 6th, was found yesterday and moved to a new location where more visitors were likely to stumble across it. From that location on some coastal rock which jutted out and utilised as a popular position in which to watch the seals, I have observed the seal stone now out and about on a journey to somewhere else!

If the family or individual who picked up the seal stone had a spare moment to let me know where it is now, I would love to hear about it. Many thanks in advance.

As always, please take care and be safe. Thank you for your time.

Remember that there are ways to get your WhaligoeEye.co.uk fix – There is a form where you can subscribe to Whaligoe Eye, or if you prefer you can look us up via social media: FACEBOOK – Whaligoe Eye – Home | Facebook, TWITTER – @whaligoeeye

Via one of the social media resources associated with this website, a lovely individual ‘tagged’ me in their communication relating to activities of women back in the day carrying the herring up the Whaligoe Steps and included a wonderful historic picture. It reminded me that as I go about my historical research in conjunction with the new-to-me discoveries in relation to the wonderfully rich selection of nature here at Whaligoe Steps, that I have not really divulged much in the way of findings.

The above photograph is of my second edition copy of the book “A Canny Countryside” by John Horne, originally published back in 1896. This lovely book doesn’t directly name Whaligoe or the surrounding area, but is known to be describing and sharing the observation of life here by the author.

With a keen wink and a nudge, former Reverend John Horne eloquently describes the landscape and environment of “Knockdry”, but thanks to a John O’Groat Journal (local newspaper) article from 1907 which identifies that all local people knew the book was all about Whaligoe, I simply had to snap up a copy! It is beautifully written and a fascinating insight.

The history lessons keep coming hard and fast as the relationship with Whaligoe Steps and smuggling goes ever deeper and more curious. My research in to the world of smuggling during the late 1700s through to the early 1900s has been quite eye-opening to say the least!

You would perhaps think that the smuggling of whisky was the core and main focus. In some respects you would be correct, as an article by Alison Campsie for The Scotsman noted in 2020 – during the 1820s up to around 14,000 illegal whisky stills were closed down on a yearly basis. As it happens tobacco, brandy and wine were also guilty pleasures too expensive for mortal persons to consume in an affordable fashion. Plenty to be smuggling via the coastline of such an isolated and remote region of the mainland.

The emphasis of these smuggling-based networks is recognised widely due to the Act of Union between England and Scotland in 1707 when tax and excise was the new system for such trade. The inhabitants of Whaligoe and surrounding pockets of society had already established a reputation for being unruly, rough around the edges and generally a law upon themselves, so new stipulated rules from the English was always going to be out of touch or unwelcome! If you include the expense and the greed of the rule-makers to take their cut of the profits, this arrangement was never going to end well.

As always, thanks for your time. Please note that you can subscribe to this blogging website now if you wish, and of course you can find us on Facebook: Whaligoe Eye – Home | Facebook or on Twitter: Whaligoe Eye (@WhaligoeEye) / Twitter and there is a YouTube channel these days too – Whaligoe Eye – YouTube

When you visit the Whaligoe Steps, you might well see a rusty old manual boat winch standing unassumingly near the pebble shore. One thing is for sure, it gets quite a view of the north sea and wildlife activity down there!

They were made with different designs but all had the same motive in mind, to haul a boat from one point to another. The reasons you would want to move a boat are plenty and will be covered over time as this humble tribute to the Whaligoe Steps grows in content.

Here are a couple of photographs showing the boat winch in the state it is in today.

The existing boat winch has certainly seen better days, but worthy of note is that this little robust piece of engineering had a Brother. Alas, the other boat winch is no longer around and back in the day would have been sighted at the base of the steps which zig-zag down the cliff.

There are still old photographs which show the other boat winch in existence down at the Whaligoe Steps. Also available when you go foraging are some interesting insights about the humble boat winch. For example, in the publication known as ‘East of Fife Record’ back in April of 1878, an article proudly proclaimed the boat winch to be “Iron Man” due to the fact it didn’t damage the nets or any other boat-worthy gear, plus it was the easiest to work and the most powerful in comparison to any other methods.

If you take a good look at the concrete base on which this fellow dwells, you may be able to make out a date scribed in it: December the 5th, 1899…

The fishing industry is a fascinating area to explore and when you look at the history of it all, you get a real sense of the development and scope over time. One place I would recommend as a starting point if you have time: Scottish Fisheries Museum – Home Page (scotfishmuseum.org)

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.

There is a lot of life at the Whaligoe Steps. Everything from snails, spiders, earwigs and other insect life to various seagulls, oystercatchers, redshanks, humans and seals. But I have not really shared with you apart from the odd social media moment, the local feline presence.

Let me introduce you to the two main attractions at the time of this blog – “Star” and “Ludwig”…

Star enjoys adventure, people and roaming around the Whaligoe Steps. You will more than likely see Star on a visit to the zig-zagging Caithness flagstone steps, as the temptation for exploration and the curious nature that dwells within gets too much. A domesticated cat which is happy outdoors to forage amongst the local environment and soften up visitors in the hope of some fussing.

The second feline attraction in the immediate area of the Whaligoe Steps belongs to a fine fellow called Ludwig.

He is also a domesticated cat, but very different from Star. Where Star can be found out and about on an adventure, Ludwig would rather be indoors thank you. Living as an indoor feline, he likes home comforts and the less exerting lifestyle. Mind you, whether he has the world record for sleeping the longest or not, he still enjoys moments of tummy-bathing when the sun is streaming through the windows, or an occasional tap ‘n’ nibble of a shoe lace or a drinking straw.

If you’re wondering what would happen if they met each other, ponder no more as they have gazed at each other on several occasions through glass. Thankfully, they seem to be quite amicable with each other with no hard feelings expressed whatsoever.

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.