Category: History

At long last, I’ve found a window of spare time to present the final bit of my 365 day trek challenge which saw me tackle a trip down and around Whaligoe Steps for the duration of a year! Each and every day since May 1st, 2023, I ventured around this local hotspot and captured my sightings with my trusty camera.

There’s also some sad tidings within this blog entry as I address a car accident which took place on June 1st, 2024.

To recap quickly, here are some links regarding my trek challenge if you’re in the mood for contemporary fauna and flora of the coastline along the northern Scottish Highlands…

Recap for Whaligoe Steps 365… (Parts 1 to 14) – Whaligoe Eye

Recap Magic for a Second Time! – Whaligoe Eye

April Full of Primrose Promise and So Much More! – Whaligoe Eye

Sunshine Blossoms with Petals of Beautiful Cloud – Whaligoe Eye

From April 29th, 2024 up to and including May 1st, 2024… Thank you for your support and kindness on social media during this whole exercise, it’s meant a lot. To my knowledge, I’m the only person to have ever taken on such an experience. It was such a joy to complete, and to share the sightings with you too.

April 29th, 2024: Cute baby rabbit enjoys some early morning sunshine, plus the winding nature of the fifth flight of Whaligoe Steps.

April 30th, 2024: The sixth and final flight of Whaligoe Steps takes you down onto the Bink (grassy platform), and a radiant glare from an optimistic morning sun.

May 1st, 2024: Slight haze in the air during this trek. Below are a couple of fine examples of the birdlife which is settling in at Whaligoe Steps. Shag (Gulosus aristotelis) on the left, and a razorbill (Alca torda) on the right.

Due to the larger numbers of visitors to this area since the North Coast 500 enterprise, an overflowing residential car park being utilised for campervans, motorbikes and cars, plus the fact there’s only one access lane have seen congestion, property damage and other accidents.

On August 20th, 2021, shortly after I began to sort this blogging website for public consumption, a car accident took place at the end of this lane near the phone box. Traffic leaving and entering via this route have to negotiate a few challenges when times are very busy.

On June 30th, 2019, the amazing local coastguard were called in as a visitor had issues down Whaligoe Steps.

On July 12th, 2022, another car incident unfolded within the confines of the residential car park here in Ulbster.

Sadly, as we await the Highland Council’s implementation for their Government-approved £90,000 for extending and improving the immediate infrastructure, another car accident occurred on June 1st, 2024.

Personally, I’ve not witnessed so many police vehicles in attendance, and can only hope that those involved are finding some sort of positivity in the aftermath.

On March 4th, 2021, the Highland Council announced they’d received a substantial tourism investment from the Government, and were reviewing their spending plans.

August 25th, 2022, the local newspaper tipped me off about their announcement to spend £90,000 on the car parking facilities here. The idea was that the Council had five years in which to tackle this project.

Fingers remained firmly crossed folks.

Regarding the tourist-themed conversation here in Caithness, a fabulous author called Gail Anthea Brown has impressed on many occasions with her intelligent and sensitive narrative on all things North Coast 500, and the general impact on this beautiful location. More About Me & Contact · Gail Anthea Brown

I highly recommend subscribing to her email newsletters. The latest example of this articulate expression arrived in my inbox on May 31st, titled “The Golden Goose – tourism and tension in the north”

So success found in tackling three hundred and sixty five consecutive days of treks down and around Whaligoe Steps, but also the shadow of sorrow for those who have experienced accidents in recent years.

Traffic has been steady and at times overwhelming here in recent weeks, so please be careful and aware of the hazards.

It is a modest residential car park, with one small access point leading off the main road. This infrastructure was NEVER designed for the volume of vehicles negotiating it.

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Part seventeen of my daily trek challenge, where I go down and around Whaligoe Steps each and every day for a whole year. It began back on the first day of May, 2023.

So far, I’ve gone through about seventy-six batteries, two pairs of footwear, a camera, and two computers that packed up on me.

I’ve experienced Storm Babet, Storm Isha and Storm Jocelyn, plus several others, in and amongst enduring ice, snow, rain, sunshine and calm. Still, at the time of composing this blog entry, there are just three months to go before I complete this epic adventure!

This entry covers the fortnight from Monday, Dec. 11th up to and including Sunday, Dec. 24th, 2023…

Dec. 11th, 2023: Below, to kickstart this documentation of my daily trek challenge, is another fine example of the wonderful skies which grace this part of the coastline throughout December.

Dec. 12th, 2023: Throughout November and December, I would encounter Star going about her travels and business. Here she is pondering fascinating things on the top of the sixth flight of Whaligoe Steps.

Dec. 13th, 2023: There is a blog entry (House with Many Names – Whaligoe Eye) which delves a little deeper about this building, which still remains with one whole wall standing on the Bink. Over the years it has been given many purposes and names, but it’s most commonly referred to as the Salt House.

Dec. 14th, 2023: Charlie Juhlenski has worked tirelessly on Whaligoe Steps utilising his stonemasonry skills. This is a plaque, a tribute to his Mum, which can be found at the base of the second flight of steps.

Dec. 15th, 2023: The below photograph is a simple example of what’s witnessed as you stand at the top of the final and sixth flight of Whaligoe Steps which leads down to the Bink.

At the time of this blog post, I notice how the steps themselves look identifiable and you can clearly see the stone. In actual reality, the recent storms have dragged a significant quantity of gravel from the top of the cliffs and deposited amounts all over the various flights.

Dec. 16th, 2023: An example of a beautiful and rich sunrise providing a backdrop to Beatrice, the wind farm located just over eight miles off the coastline here.

Dec. 17th, 2023: Sir Billy Connolly CBE, visited Whaligoe Steps in the nineties and met a couple of locals, Jimmy Miller and William Taylor. During his encounter with this coastal dwelling he noted how the waterfall was the first one he’d seen which goes up the way!

Dec. 18th, 2023: Something peaceful when you gaze at the moon. This is the moon as it looked on this particular Monday over Whaligoe Steps.

Dec. 19th, 2023: We’ve seen Star in different stages of action or rest. Here she is in huntress mode… Watch out rodents!

Dec. 20th, 2023: Below is an example of the occasional build-up of plastic pollution which litters the pebble shoreline here at Whaligoe Steps. I gather up the garbage and carry it back up with me in case you’re wondering.

Dec. 21st, 2023: This is the third flight of Whaligoe Steps. Notice the hint of rainfall which nestles on the surface of each step.

Dec. 22nd, 2023: I love the colouring in the photograph below. Typical of the rustic flora on show during this time of year around here.

Dec. 23rd, 2023: Another example of the flora which has really died back during these winter days. Plenty of cloud and rainy days.

Dec. 24th, 2023: The remaining boat winch looked a little sad for itself during Christmas Eve. I took pity on it and out came the camera.

There you have it for another blog entry showcasing some views and highlights of life down and around Whaligoe Steps this December.

The next blog entry will be significant for taking you and I out of 2023, and letting us in on the beginning of the next year. So, if you get a moment I’d welcome your company as we celebrate Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year with more photographs taken during my daily trek challenge.

While the local population discuss these amazing observations amongst themselves, I’ll say thank you only always for your generosity of time within social media, in person and also thank you for being You.

Stay safe, take care.

Link to the last blog entry if you’re curious – Daily Trek Challenge: Part 16 (Nov. 27th – Dec. 10th, 2023) – Whaligoe Eye

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Welcome to my challenge of venturing down and around Whaligoe Steps for each and every day for an entire year. As my adventures continue, I’m accumulating quite a few photographs and also documenting a lot of activity. Therefore, I felt it only appropriate to provide you with links from my previous blogs…

Here are some links to previous blog entries showcasing my visits from May 1st, 2023, up to and including Sunday, November 12th, 2023…

Enjoy!

New Challenge (Part 1) – Whaligoe Eye

New Challenge (Part 2) – Whaligoe Eye

New Challenge (Part 3) – Whaligoe Eye

New Challenge (Part 4) – Whaligoe Eye

New Challenge (Part 5) – Whaligoe Eye

New Challenge (Part 6) – Whaligoe Eye

Daily Challenge (Part 7) – Whaligoe Eye

Daily Challenge (Part 8) – Whaligoe Eye

Daily Challenge (Part 9) – Whaligoe Eye

Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 10) – Whaligoe Eye

Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 11) – Whaligoe Eye

Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 12) – Whaligoe Eye

Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 13) – Whaligoe Eye

Whaligoe Steps – Three Hundred and Sixty Five (Part 14) – Whaligoe Eye

The first fourteen blogs covering my daily treks down and around Whaligoe Steps since May 1st, 2023 up to and including November 12th, 2023.

I hope you find it interesting, maybe beautiful and also stimulating. To focus attention on one specific location and watch it evolve and change over the seasons thus far, has proved most intriguing.

Nature continues to share changes and new revelations. I’m currently in the process of sorting two more blogs bringing us up to speed with the calendar as I have successfully maintained my daily treks to this very point in time.

Thank you, only always for dropping by and supporting my endeavours and for being You.

Until the next one, take care and be safe.

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My daily treks down and around this engineering marvel, located along the coastline in Caithness continue. This blog entry shares with you another fortnight, dated from October 30th, 2023 up to November 12th, 2023…

The skies were notable at this time for being spectacular, adding a precious ambience to the experience of capturing nature here in this picturesque location.

Previous blog – Whaligoe Steps 365 (Part 13) – Whaligoe Eye

Welcome once more to Whaligoe Steps…

Oct. 30th, 2023: Clouds were sauntering through rich blue skies, whilst the ‘forgotten’ flight of Whaligoe Steps juggled with rain and hints of grass.

Oct. 31st, 2023: Sunrise wrestled with more clouds during this Tuesday trek.

As I ascended the steps, I was greeted by my first sighting of the robin this autumn.

Nov. 1st, 2023: Ventured into the shallow cave on the pebble shoreline.

Since storm Babet, I’m still discovering the changes within the landscape around here. This includes how the rusty broken anchor has been moved and partly covered.

Nov. 2nd, 2023: It doesn’t happen every morning, but it’s a treat to witness both the sun in one direction and the moon in the other. The photos below show how prominent the moon was during this particular trek.

Nov. 3rd, 2023: Unsettled weather was captured as waves whipped up into gusty symphonies.

Nov. 4th, 2023: Star was attentive and delightful as she always is.

A clattering of jackdaws enjoy the sunshine which coats a roaming fence.

Nov. 5th, 2023: Two faces of the North Sea captured in one trek. Waves excitable reach for the skies, and then a little later there were tranquil waters.

Nov. 6th, 2023: A wild rabbit plays peek-a-boo.

I found that Whaligoe Steps has a heart of stone.

Nov. 7th, 2023: Landscape moments where perception is captured from a distance. Looking down on the Bink where the North Sea shares a clarity.

The waterfall here continues to flow with abundant energy.

Nov. 8th, 2023: Ambience of another cloudy autumnal day.

Nov. 9th, 2023: On this Thursday trek, I was fortunate to see two versions of a sunrise. A softer glow behind swaying flora was the first encounter.

Then a little later, a fire sandwiched between well defined clouds.

Nov. 10th, 2023: Standing beside the old Salt House down on the Bink gives a sense of history within this coastal environment.

During this trek, I pondered over the vastness of the enduring tides of the North Sea.

Nov. 11th, 2023: Temperatures fell during these treks down and around Whaligoe Steps, but still the sun watched from afar.

Pleasant ambience on this early Saturday afternoon.

Nov. 12th, 2023: Silhouettes.

Wrap up warm and know you’re appreciated. Thank you for your generosity of time and for your support, they mean a lot.

Until the next one, take care.

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A sunrise captured for posterity on the 29th of April, 2023. Not just golden in a visual sense, but an opportunity photographed and shared for what is a blog touching on historic postcards. Postcards regarding this coastline of the Highlands of Scotland, and the fishing industry which celebrated the ‘herring fisheries’ in a big way around the latter part of the 1700s.

Here, overlooking the area along the top of the Whaligoe Steps, not only am I going to share some postcards but I will also share some poetry and an update about some painted stones which I hid around the Steps. Thank you for your time, it’s always appreciated.

No writing on the other side of the above postcard, but it’s a personal favourite showing a sample of the culture. “A Scotch Fisher Lassie”. During the research for my batch of postcards, the number in the bottom left hand corner is identified as a series number, not a date.

This John O’ Groats postcard was sent to Gosport, Hampshire (England), and stamped by the local Post Office in 1929. John O’ Groats is a 31 minute drive (23 miles) from Whaligoe Steps according to ‘Google Maps’.

Another favourite is this postcard of Keiss Castle, posted to Bognor Regis (England) back in 1906. According to ‘Google’ it is a 20 minute drive from Whaligoe Steps to Keiss, which covers a distance of just over 14 miles.

The above postcard provides a glorious hint of the Wick Harbour area, enthusiastic with sea-going activity. Sadly, the year isn’t visible on the other side of the ‘card, but the address it was posted to resided on the Orkney Isles.

As a sample of my ever-growing collection of postcards, I wish to share this last one for now which showcases Wick Harbour (now known as ‘Wick Marina’). What looks like a clock on a building to the left of the above postcard as you look at it, has been identified as a barometer and it’s still there at the time of this blog entry.

Thanks to a gentleman via the Whaligoe Eye Facebook platform, he advised of a tragedy which became known as ‘Black Saturday’ (1848), where a calm night of fishing turned into a deadly storm. As a result of the following enquiry a barometer was installed.

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Recently, Stuart Matthews assembled some fabulous poetry from a community via the Twitter social media platform again, and I am thrilled to say I had two poems included among these talented souls.

‘Weave Words Within Waves’ is now available from all good book retail sources, and is known as the sixth release in his ‘Instant Eternal’ series.

I try to craft and share a poem once a day as often as I can via Twitter, and enjoy reading other contributions daily. These recent poems generally have a photograph I’ve taken included, to provide a context or art-related addition. Here are two of my recent poems which I shared with poetry enthusiasts during April, 2023…

“Like a Flower”

When sooner
meets
later
In poems
on
paper

Are you dawn,
where hope’s
reborn?

Are you day,
come what
may?

Are you dusk,
when needs
must?

Are you night,
losing
light?

Manifest moments
to make all
four
Like a flower writes
verses here on
the floor

The above photo was taken in my garden on the 14th of April, and the poem was crafted on the same day.

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“Ocean Wide”

Like gazing at
an ocean
wide
You seek a truth
that’s not
denied

To forgive when
heart so
blue
Would mean a
sacrifice from
you

What lengths
would you
go
To catch that
falling
star?

When you’ve
grown these
wings
In the near to
reach so
far

The above poem and photograph date to April 11th, 2023.

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During the 17th of April, 2023, one of the neighbours dropped by to assist with some stone-painting. Decorating stones and pebbles with all manner of designs proved both therapeutic and fun for all concerned. Some of these stones are pictured below, and I hid them in various locations dotted around Whaligoe Steps.

Painting these small rocks always provides entertainment in not only the creative process, but also hiding them, and then finding out where they went to. One specific painted stone proved popular and I was notified yesterday (April 30th) that it had made the journey back to Malta!!!

The painted stone you see above keeping the radiant primrose company, was on April 18th, 2023. It was relocated several times and then disappeared. Well, to know it landed in Malta is a lovely surprise, and I thank you for sharing your update and thank you for being You.

As it says on the stone, “Let love sparkle”

I ended up taking a lot of nature-themed photographs throughout April around Whaligoe Steps, and here are just a few I wish to share with you…

As the season is upon us for visitors, nature and adventure, I’ll be adding more blog posts soon.

Until next time, thank you as always for your time and kindness. Sending you positive wishes.

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Did you hear my teeth chattering and feel a wee tremble as the cold wrestled with the tips of my fingers? Well, this cold time of year has now faded away to unveil Easter celebrations and splashes of Spring, but here at Whaligoe Steps there’s been plenty going on since my last blog entry.

Join me if you will, to witness some beautiful Winter-themed photography of this picturesque area from several days in December ’22 and March ’23…

Living beside the North Sea means the winds bite with a bitter temperature, and most often tend to be the reason for lack of snow. Whilst watching/listening to the weather forecast, they speak of more inland areas receiving generous snowfall, but here on the coastline it’s a little less commonplace.

The photos above hopefully share an ambience and an idea of how this area looks when the snow does actually drop by and hang around for a day or two.

There’s a region where a landfall tucks itself away in a corner once you reach the base of Whaligoe Steps, which during these colder experiences showcases stunning icicles. I’ve included two photographs of this for your perusal.

One of the images above is a new ‘toy’ which arrived during the Festive period. A glass orb which creates some interesting photographs like an arty lens. Here are a couple more which I like, but I’m still experimenting with the globe.

I won’t bore you with events and activities which have been taking place over the past few months, but I will share with you that I’ve been collecting old postcards with connections to this rustic and ever-changing coastline. In fact, at the time of this blog it’s Easter weekend, so here’s an example of an old postcard which showcases celebrations of Easter back in 1914. If you’re pondering over the journey this specific postcard took I can tell you that it was sent from the U.S.A. to England back in the day.

Let’s not get caught up too much in that detour, as a blog will be forthcoming about old postcards.

It is April, 2023… This means the season of sunrise and daffodils is upon us. Here are some photographs embracing these enchanting sights.

The residential car park here at Whaligoe Steps has been getting busier since April 1st, and there are evidently more visitors during the ‘quiet time’ of the year (November – February) when temperatures have dropped and folk are recovering from the turning of a new year and Christmas festivities. The reputation of this area continues to reach more and more curious minds.

Remember, if you encounter the congestion or any frustrations regarding lack of facilities, infrastructure-related issues, that the Highland Council have announced they’re investing a tourist-based funding of £90,000 at some point over the next five years. This will definitely benefit visitors and residents alike.

(Residential car park at Whaligoe Steps, April 8th, 2023…)

On November 11th, 2022, I took these photographs of a Highland Council approved sign which can be seen here on the verge of the residential car parking facilities.

Naturally, when it gets very busy here this sign doesn’t seem to mean a lot. Nevertheless, it is a presence and possible indicator of Highland Council intentions to do what they can with the budgets they have. Keeping fingers and toes crossed.

As the season of activity and visitors has arrived in full flow, I’ll be active on this website more and of course there are social media updates going on too. Many extra photographs end up via social media platforms if you’re interested, but time is always against us. No pressure.

Take care, be safe and know I’m sending you positive wishes for a rewarding and precious day/night.

Thank you for being You.

Greylag goose (Anser anser) sighted on a loch nearby, April 7th, 2023…

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If I’m watching a television series and there is a gap between watching the episodes, I find myself thankful when the creators of such a show provide a recap. That magical reminder of the characters and their story arc, the prompt to pick up where I left off whilst watching avidly on prior occasions.

So here it is for those of you who are new to the “Whaligoe Eye” project (and there has been a significant increase of visitors to this humble website), covering life on and around the remarkable Whaligoe Steps, here in the north Highlands of Scotland.

This recap also applies to those who have dropped by in the past thanks to my coverage of Stonemasonry undertaken by Charles Juhlenski on the Steps; the blogs covering my thirteen day monitoring of a grey seal pup here at Whaligoe Steps; the coverage of ongoing congestion and overwhelming traffic issues which have plagued the local infrastructure here causing a significant amount of anxiety and stress for visitors and locals alike, or general curiosity after the welcome social media interest in my poetry and promotion of this website.

Although the history of Whaligoe Steps can be dated back via documented sources to around 1640, the Steps we can witness at the time of this blog entry are commonly associated to the sterling investment of Captain David Brodie. He commissioned around 330 Caithness flagstones to be set in the cliff face to provide a robust pathway down to what is known as the Bink, which is situated at the base of the zig-zagging descent. The year most commonly associated with Captain Brodie and his intent on creating a better walkway is around 1791.

I’m not going to enter into a whole chronological history lesson right now, that can wait for the book which I’m researching and constantly working on. Just know that living here for over thirty years, I count my blessings being entertained, stimulated and marvelling at the world around me regarding Whaligoe Steps. So let me take this opportunity to share the story thus far dating back only a few months when I kickstarted this modest blogging website.

Due to the frustrating lack of acknowledgement by the Highland Council to the plight facing residents and visitors to Whaligoe Steps over the past five years (!), I took the plunge and paid for this website in August, 2021. For one reason or another, nobody else was in a situation locally to provide a sensible and socially aware approach to bringing attention to the evident health and safety risks of residents and visitors here.

After being informed by other residents of constant minor vehicle-related incidents in the residents carpark, or near misses to pedestrians in relation to the significant increase to traffic either mounting the kerb, or trying to negotiate a singular access point which was not built for purpose of this magnitude, I decided to do something about it! The proverbial cherry on top of the cake arrived nearly a year prior, when in September, 2020, my outer wall was knocked down by an impressive sized campervan! My stress levels hit an all time high.

As of the middle of January, 2022, I’m sad to update one and all with how nothing has changed regarding this specific concern. Mind you, in fairness to the Highland Council they did eventually provide a well-used dustbin for refuse collection as we had at that point no facilities other than a yellow grit bin! The rubbish bin is a silver lining to what has been a huge disappointment thus far.

I took a screenshot of a relevant online meeting the Highland Council orchestrated regarding significant increases to tourism in the Highlands and the impacts thereof. This meeting was held on September 29th (2021) and apart from their back-slapping over providing wardens to assess and data-collect, they also recognised that lessons in social media would be beneficial.

Despite only one local Councillor venturing out to meet me and discuss or listen to my woes, I have emailed all others from the local Ward to no avail. The warden I witnessed on a couple of occasions who visited the carpark and immediate area when no traffic and disruption was unfolding, made no overtures of communication or data-collection from myself or those who I have spoken with.

Sharing this with you is surprisingly cathartic, so I extend my humble thanks to you for listening.

So the first blog entry was on August the 15th, 2021, reporting on the chaos of another year busy with visitors to Whaligoe Steps, and tales of being unable to park in allocated spaces as they were full. As the days rolled by in a blur of constant monitoring and anxiety, the website began to take on other elements of what makes this community so interesting and precious.

There was a trip taken with Caithness Seacoast in 2021 which added to the learning curve regarding the relationship of Whaligoe Steps in context to the coastline leading to Wick. During this time I was learning about the abundant wildlife around Whaligoe Steps, and raising awareness regarding the ominous situation on my doorstep with congestion and volume of visitors by talking to some local newspapers…

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“Whaligoe Eye” by this point was showcasing galleries representing Nature – Whaligoe Eye plus photographs of visitors who were happy to be added to Postcards – Whaligoe Eye

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Another highlight for me was getting the opportunity to talk to the Stonemason Charles Juhlenski and see him at work. For several months he worked hard repairing and maintaining a couple of flights from the total of six which make up Whaligoe Steps.

Before the end of 2021, on my regular treks down the Steps I was privileged to discover a baby grey seal on the pebble shore. For thirteen days I monitored the transition as the white fur gave way to a grey coat, and the general confidence the pup developed as it became aware of its surroundings. Two blogs covered this experience and even now I am so warm-hearted by the whole encounter.

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I think that will do for what was supposed to be a condensed recap of the past few months here at Whaligoe Steps.

The positive feedback and support from local folk as well as those beautiful people from around the globe, from Australia to Africa, Canada and the U.S., to many other interesting parts of the Earth, have been at times sincerely overwhelming. I thank you one and all.

It would be remiss of me not to say that your continued support simply visiting and reading some of the content; following the various social media enterprises associated with this website; and those who subscribed to this venture via the online form, are very much appreciated and add to the unity of cultural insight and awareness of this area of the Highlands coastline in Scotland. You also get to peek behind a curtain and relate to community impact in the face of a perceived apathy and uncomfortable political situation. I share my humble gratitude with you and look forward to sharing more of this unfolding true story with you.

This year, 2022, is looking like it will be one truly insane time! Where unassuming visitors and residents already battle-weary, will be confronting another dangerous and chaotic arena of feverish activities. Not only is access for emergency services in question, but sadly the constant call for updates within the infrastructure here to cater for toilet facilities, better signage, safer conditions for pedestrians, better parking allocation, and perhaps some communication/transparency from the Highland Council with the residents regarding intentions or plans which may be ahead.

Be assured that it’s my intention to continue working on updates for this website throughout 2022. Covering as much of the evolving landscape, wildlife, revealing the history as I research it, and capturing the carnage which is to follow as the months creep forward.

Thank You again, you’re amazing. Take care and stay safe.

Gary.

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Latest Blog Entry: A Cool Descent… – Whaligoe Eye

I went down the Whaligoe Steps not once, but twice, which may not sound unusual considering I live here. But when you discover that I was dressed up in a boiler suit, put on a pair of steel toe-capped boots and was wearing a claustrophobic mask you may ponder why would I do such a thing?! Well, it is Halloween and I can be over-zealous when caught in a moment, plus in this example I had indulged in a movie franchise binge and found my over-active imagination stimulated to unhealthy proportions.

In recent months behind the scenes there has been plenty of researching, note-taking and general mischief and merriment to make even a pirate blush, and the results of these eye-opening activities will be surfacing in one form or another during the ever-anticipated and unfolding future. But for now I wanted to share with you a fascinating mystery. I felt the essence of this mystery bid a salute to this time of year, which is the spooky and creepy event some regard as Halloween.

It was the 14th of July, 1848, and a Whaligoe fisherman out on the ocean waves along the coastline here at Caithness, vanished aboard his fishing boat whilst seeking out a herring catch to make the most hardy of competitors sweat with jealousy. Nothing was ever found or deduced in relation to his disappearance apart from his bonnet floating eerily on the surface of the sea. The crew which consisted of his two sons had no account worthy of substance as to the reason why this local man simply disappeared without warning or notice. Their unanimous account rallied the narrative of waking up and finding that Donald Miller had simply vanished without trace during the night.

Mr. Miller’s Brother Alexander, was also regarded as a local Whaligoe fisherman, and lived in Pulteneytown which is located around seven miles away. On the evening of the 11th of December, 1856, what was later identified as his hat was discovered onboard a boat called the “Rambler”, but there was quite literally no sign or sound of the man himself. It appeared that on this fateful late hour, Mr. Alexander Miller had simply vanished without any trace leaving only his hat as a signature of existence.

Curious tales of disappearance, a mystery wrapped up in an enigma. To this day as I sit here after stumbling across these two moments of curiosity; eight years apart but both showcasing a disappearance with no satisfactory conclusion and leaving behind their hats – I think this is a worthy blog entry on the day of Hallows Eve…

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.

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The building which still stands on the bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps is nothing more than a ghost of what it used to be. The architecture of what is standing today shares with the witness a potential of what once was and hints at the industry which took place over a century prior.

The remains of this old building are the remnants of a time when the herring fisheries were rife and full of activity and industry. It was used as a salt house or curing house and had several names and uses during its prime. Fish that were brought in to this modest and rustic commercial port would be gutted and packed, protected within salt to last their journey. Once this process was finished, the fish were ready to be transported seven miles northwards to the main area of operations, the coastal town of Wick.

A John O’Groat Journal newspaper article dated back in 1838 mentioned the curing stations in both Whaligoe and Clyth had been completely destroyed during snow storms that lasted about eight weeks. The author of the article also exclaimed how important the two curing houses were and had no doubt they would be rebuilt so they could withstand such weather conditions in the future.

Despite the building being fairly sturdy, danger lurked around the corner. For example, in 1853 a woman was killed by falling rock whilst she packed herring in a barrel. A year later, more rocks were falling from the cliff above around the area where women were packing the fish. Two fishermen attempted to make the situation safer by knocking away loose and dangerous overhanging coastal sections due to the evident prospect of more fatalities, but were sadly placed in the Sheriff’s Court for “wanton and malicious mischief”. This was due to the results of their endeavours damaging the Whaligoe Steps and a curing bench.

Via one of the social media resources associated with this website, a lovely individual ‘tagged’ me in their communication relating to activities of women back in the day carrying the herring up the Whaligoe Steps and included a wonderful historic picture. It reminded me that as I go about my historical research in conjunction with the new-to-me discoveries in relation to the wonderfully rich selection of nature here at Whaligoe Steps, that I have not really divulged much in the way of findings.

The above photograph is of my second edition copy of the book “A Canny Countryside” by John Horne, originally published back in 1896. This lovely book doesn’t directly name Whaligoe or the surrounding area, but is known to be describing and sharing the observation of life here by the author.

With a keen wink and a nudge, former Reverend John Horne eloquently describes the landscape and environment of “Knockdry”, but thanks to a John O’Groat Journal (local newspaper) article from 1907 which identifies that all local people knew the book was all about Whaligoe, I simply had to snap up a copy! It is beautifully written and a fascinating insight.

The history lessons keep coming hard and fast as the relationship with Whaligoe Steps and smuggling goes ever deeper and more curious. My research in to the world of smuggling during the late 1700s through to the early 1900s has been quite eye-opening to say the least!

You would perhaps think that the smuggling of whisky was the core and main focus. In some respects you would be correct, as an article by Alison Campsie for The Scotsman noted in 2020 – during the 1820s up to around 14,000 illegal whisky stills were closed down on a yearly basis. As it happens tobacco, brandy and wine were also guilty pleasures too expensive for mortal persons to consume in an affordable fashion. Plenty to be smuggling via the coastline of such an isolated and remote region of the mainland.

The emphasis of these smuggling-based networks is recognised widely due to the Act of Union between England and Scotland in 1707 when tax and excise was the new system for such trade. The inhabitants of Whaligoe and surrounding pockets of society had already established a reputation for being unruly, rough around the edges and generally a law upon themselves, so new stipulated rules from the English was always going to be out of touch or unwelcome! If you include the expense and the greed of the rule-makers to take their cut of the profits, this arrangement was never going to end well.

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