Welcome to my challenge of venturing down and around Whaligoe Steps for each and every day for an entire year. As my adventures continue, I’m accumulating quite a few photographs and also documenting a lot of activity. Therefore, I felt it only appropriate to provide you with links from my previous blogs…
Here are some links to previous blog entries showcasing my visits from May 1st, 2023, up to and including Sunday, November 12th, 2023…
The first fourteen blogs covering my daily treks down and around Whaligoe Steps since May 1st, 2023 up to and including November 12th, 2023.
I hope you find it interesting, maybe beautiful and also stimulating. To focus attention on one specific location and watch it evolve and change over the seasons thus far, has proved most intriguing.
Nature continues to share changes and new revelations. I’m currently in the process of sorting two more blogs bringing us up to speed with the calendar as I have successfully maintained my daily treks to this very point in time.
Thank you, only always for dropping by and supporting my endeavours and for being You.
A sunrise captured for posterity on the 29th of April, 2023. Not just golden in a visual sense, but an opportunity photographed and shared for what is a blog touching on historic postcards. Postcards regarding this coastline of the Highlands of Scotland, and the fishing industry which celebrated the ‘herring fisheries’ in a big way around the latter part of the 1700s.
Here, overlooking the area along the top of the Whaligoe Steps, not only am I going to share some postcards but I will also share some poetry and an update about some painted stones which I hid around the Steps. Thank you for your time, it’s always appreciated.
No writing on the other side of the above postcard, but it’s a personal favourite showing a sample of the culture. “A Scotch Fisher Lassie”. During the research for my batch of postcards, the number in the bottom left hand corner is identified as a series number, not a date.
This John O’ Groats postcard was sent to Gosport, Hampshire (England), and stamped by the local Post Office in 1929. John O’ Groats is a 31 minute drive (23 miles) from Whaligoe Steps according to ‘Google Maps’.
Another favourite is this postcard of Keiss Castle, posted to Bognor Regis (England) back in 1906. According to ‘Google’ it is a 20 minute drive from Whaligoe Steps to Keiss, which covers a distance of just over 14 miles.
The above postcard provides a glorious hint of the Wick Harbour area, enthusiastic with sea-going activity. Sadly, the year isn’t visible on the other side of the ‘card, but the address it was posted to resided on the Orkney Isles.
As a sample of my ever-growing collection of postcards, I wish to share this last one for now which showcases Wick Harbour (now known as ‘Wick Marina’). What looks like a clock on a building to the left of the above postcard as you look at it, has been identified as a barometer and it’s still there at the time of this blog entry.
Thanks to a gentleman via the Whaligoe Eye Facebook platform, he advised of a tragedy which became known as ‘Black Saturday’ (1848), where a calm night of fishing turned into a deadly storm. As a result of the following enquiry a barometer was installed.
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Recently, Stuart Matthews assembled some fabulous poetry from a community via the Twitter social media platform again, and I am thrilled to say I had two poems included among these talented souls.
‘Weave Words Within Waves’ is now available from all good book retail sources, and is known as the sixth release in his ‘Instant Eternal’ series.
I try to craft and share a poem once a day as often as I can via Twitter, and enjoy reading other contributions daily. These recent poems generally have a photograph I’ve taken included, to provide a context or art-related addition. Here are two of my recent poems which I shared with poetry enthusiasts during April, 2023…
“Like a Flower”
When sooner meets later In poems on paper
Are you dawn, where hope’s reborn?
Are you day, come what may?
Are you dusk, when needs must?
Are you night, losing light?
Manifest moments to make all four Like a flower writes verses here on the floor
The above photo was taken in my garden on the 14th of April, and the poem was crafted on the same day.
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“Ocean Wide”
Like gazing at an ocean wide You seek a truth that’s not denied
To forgive when heart so blue Would mean a sacrifice from you
What lengths would you go To catch that falling star?
When you’ve grown these wings In the near to reach so far
The above poem and photograph date to April 11th, 2023.
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During the 17th of April, 2023, one of the neighbours dropped by to assist with some stone-painting. Decorating stones and pebbles with all manner of designs proved both therapeutic and fun for all concerned. Some of these stones are pictured below, and I hid them in various locations dotted around Whaligoe Steps.
Painting these small rocks always provides entertainment in not only the creative process, but also hiding them, and then finding out where they went to. One specific painted stone proved popular and I was notified yesterday (April 30th) that it had made the journey back to Malta!!!
The painted stone you see above keeping the radiant primrose company, was on April 18th, 2023. It was relocated several times and then disappeared. Well, to know it landed in Malta is a lovely surprise, and I thank you for sharing your update and thank you for being You.
As it says on the stone, “Let love sparkle”
I ended up taking a lot of nature-themed photographs throughout April around Whaligoe Steps, and here are just a few I wish to share with you…
As the season is upon us for visitors, nature and adventure, I’ll be adding more blog posts soon.
Until next time, thank you as always for your time and kindness. Sending you positive wishes.
If I’m watching a television series and there is a gap between watching the episodes, I find myself thankful when the creators of such a show provide a recap. That magical reminder of the characters and their story arc, the prompt to pick up where I left off whilst watching avidly on prior occasions.
So here it is for those of you who are new to the “Whaligoe Eye” project (and there has been a significant increase of visitors to this humble website), covering life on and around the remarkable Whaligoe Steps, here in the north Highlands of Scotland.
This recap also applies to those who have dropped by in the past thanks to my coverage of Stonemasonry undertaken by Charles Juhlenski on the Steps; the blogs covering my thirteen day monitoring of a grey seal pup here at Whaligoe Steps; the coverage of ongoing congestion and overwhelming traffic issues which have plagued the local infrastructure here causing a significant amount of anxiety and stress for visitors and locals alike, or general curiosity after the welcome social media interest in my poetry and promotion of this website.
Although the history of Whaligoe Steps can be dated back via documented sources to around 1640, the Steps we can witness at the time of this blog entry are commonly associated to the sterling investment of Captain David Brodie. He commissioned around 330 Caithness flagstones to be set in the cliff face to provide a robust pathway down to what is known as the Bink, which is situated at the base of the zig-zagging descent. The year most commonly associated with Captain Brodie and his intent on creating a better walkway is around 1791.
I’m not going to enter into a whole chronological history lesson right now, that can wait for the book which I’m researching and constantly working on. Just know that living here for over thirty years, I count my blessings being entertained, stimulated and marvelling at the world around me regarding Whaligoe Steps. So let me take this opportunity to share the story thus far dating back only a few months when I kickstarted this modest blogging website.
(Social media screenshot) Coverage at the time of the dangerous numbers of visitors overwhelmed the immediate infrastructure at Whaligoe Steps
Due to the frustrating lack of acknowledgement by the Highland Council to the plight facing residents and visitors to Whaligoe Steps over the past five years (!), I took the plunge and paid for this website in August, 2021. For one reason or another, nobody else was in a situation locally to provide a sensible and socially aware approach to bringing attention to the evident health and safety risks of residents and visitors here.
After being informed by other residents of constant minor vehicle-related incidents in the residents carpark, or near misses to pedestrians in relation to the significant increase to traffic either mounting the kerb, or trying to negotiate a singular access point which was not built for purpose of this magnitude, I decided to do something about it! The proverbial cherry on top of the cake arrived nearly a year prior, when in September, 2020, my outer wall was knocked down by an impressive sized campervan! My stress levels hit an all time high.
Residents carpark totally full in August, 2021 – No space for residents or anyone wishing to visit residents…
As of the middle of January, 2022, I’m sad to update one and all with how nothing has changed regarding this specific concern. Mind you, in fairness to the Highland Council they did eventually provide a well-used dustbin for refuse collection as we had at that point no facilities other than a yellow grit bin! The rubbish bin is a silver lining to what has been a huge disappointment thus far.
I took a screenshot of a relevant online meeting the Highland Council orchestrated regarding significant increases to tourism in the Highlands and the impacts thereof. This meeting was held on September 29th (2021) and apart from their back-slapping over providing wardens to assess and data-collect, they also recognised that lessons in social media would be beneficial.
Despite only one local Councillor venturing out to meet me and discuss or listen to my woes, I have emailed all others from the local Ward to no avail. The warden I witnessed on a couple of occasions who visited the carpark and immediate area when no traffic and disruption was unfolding, made no overtures of communication or data-collection from myself or those who I have spoken with.
Sharing this with you is surprisingly cathartic, so I extend my humble thanks to you for listening.
So the first blog entry was on August the 15th, 2021, reporting on the chaos of another year busy with visitors to Whaligoe Steps, and tales of being unable to park in allocated spaces as they were full. As the days rolled by in a blur of constant monitoring and anxiety, the website began to take on other elements of what makes this community so interesting and precious.
Photo taken thanks to a trip with Caithness Seacoast in 2021… From the perspective of the north sea looking under the Bink.
There was a trip taken with Caithness Seacoast in 2021 which added to the learning curve regarding the relationship of Whaligoe Steps in context to the coastline leading to Wick. During this time I was learning about the abundant wildlife around Whaligoe Steps, and raising awareness regarding the ominous situation on my doorstep with congestion and volume of visitors by talking to some local newspapers…
Another highlight for me was getting the opportunity to talk to the Stonemason Charles Juhlenski and see him at work. For several months he worked hard repairing and maintaining a couple of flights from the total of six which make up Whaligoe Steps.
Before the end of 2021, on my regular treks down the Steps I was privileged to discover a baby grey seal on the pebble shore. For thirteen days I monitored the transition as the white fur gave way to a grey coat, and the general confidence the pup developed as it became aware of its surroundings. Two blogs covered this experience and even now I am so warm-hearted by the whole encounter.
Baby grey seal (Halichoerus grypus)
Me with a salvage of plastic pollution
Baby grey seal (Halichoerus grypus) – One of my last photos of a grey seal pup after monitoring it for 13 days…
I think that will do for what was supposed to be a condensed recap of the past few months here at Whaligoe Steps.
The positive feedback and support from local folk as well as those beautiful people from around the globe, from Australia to Africa, Canada and the U.S., to many other interesting parts of the Earth, have been at times sincerely overwhelming. I thank you one and all.
It would be remiss of me not to say that your continued support simply visiting and reading some of the content; following the various social media enterprises associated with this website; and those who subscribed to this venture via the online form, are very much appreciated and add to the unity of cultural insight and awareness of this area of the Highlands coastline in Scotland. You also get to peek behind a curtain and relate to community impact in the face of a perceived apathy and uncomfortable political situation. I share my humble gratitude with you and look forward to sharing more of this unfolding true story with you.
This year, 2022, is looking like it will be one truly insane time! Where unassuming visitors and residents already battle-weary, will be confronting another dangerous and chaotic arena of feverish activities. Not only is access for emergency services in question, but sadly the constant call for updates within the infrastructure here to cater for toilet facilities, better signage, safer conditions for pedestrians, better parking allocation, and perhaps some communication/transparency from the Highland Council with the residents regarding intentions or plans which may be ahead.
Be assured that it’s my intention to continue working on updates for this website throughout 2022. Covering as much of the evolving landscape, wildlife, revealing the history as I research it, and capturing the carnage which is to follow as the months creep forward.
Thank You again, you’re amazing. Take care and stay safe.
The building which still stands on the bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps is nothing more than a ghost of what it used to be. The architecture of what is standing today shares with the witness a potential of what once was and hints at the industry which took place over a century prior.
View from inside of what remains and where the walls still stand.
The remains of this old building are the remnants of a time when the herring fisheries were rife and full of activity and industry. It was used as a salt house or curing house and had several names and uses during its prime. Fish that were brought in to this modest and rustic commercial port would be gutted and packed, protected within salt to last their journey. Once this process was finished, the fish were ready to be transported seven miles northwards to the main area of operations, the coastal town of Wick.
A John O’Groat Journal newspaper article dated back in 1838 mentioned the curing stations in both Whaligoe and Clyth had been completely destroyed during snow storms that lasted about eight weeks. The author of the article also exclaimed how important the two curing houses were and had no doubt they would be rebuilt so they could withstand such weather conditions in the future.
View of the end wall from the outside
Despite the building being fairly sturdy, danger lurked around the corner. For example, in 1853 a woman was killed by falling rock whilst she packed herring in a barrel. A year later, more rocks were falling from the cliff above around the area where women were packing the fish. Two fishermen attempted to make the situation safer by knocking away loose and dangerous overhanging coastal sections due to the evident prospect of more fatalities, but were sadly placed in the Sheriff’s Court for “wanton and malicious mischief”. This was due to the results of their endeavours damaging the Whaligoe Steps and a curing bench.
View of the bink from inside the remains of the house with many names…
Via one of the social media resources associated with this website, a lovely individual ‘tagged’ me in their communication relating to activities of women back in the day carrying the herring up the Whaligoe Steps and included a wonderful historic picture. It reminded me that as I go about my historical research in conjunction with the new-to-me discoveries in relation to the wonderfully rich selection of nature here at Whaligoe Steps, that I have not really divulged much in the way of findings.
“A Canny Countryside”
The above photograph is of my second edition copy of the book “A Canny Countryside” by John Horne, originally published back in 1896. This lovely book doesn’t directly name Whaligoe or the surrounding area, but is known to be describing and sharing the observation of life here by the author.
With a keen wink and a nudge, former Reverend John Horne eloquently describes the landscape and environment of “Knockdry”, but thanks to a John O’Groat Journal (local newspaper) article from 1907 which identifies that all local people knew the book was all about Whaligoe, I simply had to snap up a copy! It is beautifully written and a fascinating insight.
The history lessons keep coming hard and fast as the relationship with Whaligoe Steps and smuggling goes ever deeper and more curious. My research in to the world of smuggling during the late 1700s through to the early 1900s has been quite eye-opening to say the least!
You would perhaps think that the smuggling of whisky was the core and main focus. In some respects you would be correct, as an article by Alison Campsie for The Scotsman noted in 2020 – during the 1820s up to around 14,000 illegal whisky stills were closed down on a yearly basis. As it happens tobacco, brandy and wine were also guilty pleasures too expensive for mortal persons to consume in an affordable fashion. Plenty to be smuggling via the coastline of such an isolated and remote region of the mainland.
The emphasis of these smuggling-based networks is recognised widely due to the Act of Union between England and Scotland in 1707 when tax and excise was the new system for such trade. The inhabitants of Whaligoe and surrounding pockets of society had already established a reputation for being unruly, rough around the edges and generally a law upon themselves, so new stipulated rules from the English was always going to be out of touch or unwelcome! If you include the expense and the greed of the rule-makers to take their cut of the profits, this arrangement was never going to end well.
The tide is out and in the distance is a boat winch…
When you visit the Whaligoe Steps, you might well see a rusty old manual boat winch standing unassumingly near the pebble shore. One thing is for sure, it gets quite a view of the north sea and wildlife activity down there!
They were made with different designs but all had the same motive in mind, to haul a boat from one point to another. The reasons you would want to move a boat are plenty and will be covered over time as this humble tribute to the Whaligoe Steps grows in content.
Path down a slippery (when wet) slope towards the existing boat winch…
Here are a couple of photographs showing the boat winch in the state it is in today.
Is it just me, or does that look like a face?
The existing boat winch has certainly seen better days, but worthy of note is that this little robust piece of engineering had a Brother. Alas, the other boat winch is no longer around and back in the day would have been sighted at the base of the steps which zig-zag down the cliff.
Location where the other boat winch used to be.
There are still old photographs which show the other boat winch in existence down at the Whaligoe Steps. Also available when you go foraging are some interesting insights about the humble boat winch. For example, in the publication known as ‘East of Fife Record’ back in April of 1878, an article proudly proclaimed the boat winch to be “Iron Man” due to the fact it didn’t damage the nets or any other boat-worthy gear, plus it was the easiest to work and the most powerful in comparison to any other methods.
The humble boat winch.
If you take a good look at the concrete base on which this fellow dwells, you may be able to make out a date scribed in it: December the 5th, 1899…
The fishing industry is a fascinating area to explore and when you look at the history of it all, you get a real sense of the development and scope over time. One place I would recommend as a starting point if you have time: Scottish Fisheries Museum – Home Page (scotfishmuseum.org)
Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.
Star pondering over where the other boat winch went?
I was reflecting over the many individuals who have scribed their initials in to bits of the Whaligoe Steps. There are quite a few and they all tell their own story.
The “W Y T” you see in my photograph happens to belong to someone who lived close to the Whaligoe Steps for essentially his entire life. Sadly he is no longer with us and I personally miss him a lot. Prepare yourself for a wee blog swimming in sentimentality.
William Taylor
In the photograph where he’s sporting his woolly hat and dark blue overalls, he is keeping busy in his shed working on his woodwork. He made chairs, a cupboard and all sorts of items.
Back in the day when I was very fortunate enough to know William “Wull” Taylor, he was a busy and gentle man. If “Wull” was not making something with his carpentry skills, he was reading, fishing, building a miniature model railway or going for a walk in to the wilderness.
He was a prolific fisherman utilising different flies on the end of his fishing rod and calculating which one was going to be the flavour of the season. Visiting a local loch, he would be calm and patient whilst observing all around him.
Many evenings saw the two of us or maybe more tackling old computer games when cassettes were the format of choice. Patiently waiting for games to load before we could get stuck in to them, our conversations would cover subjects like books, magazines, films, plans for the future and life as we observed it. “Wull” enjoyed science fiction pop-culture in the form of Terry Pratchett books, the ‘Red Dwarf’ television programme and I recall when ‘The X-Files’ started out, how we would both be buzzing with enthusiasm about it.
Due to his gentle nature, “Wull” was very much loved in the community. For me personally, it is a delight to think that visitors to the Whaligoe Steps may notice his initials carved in to one of the steps as they either descend or ascend. His memory lives on in a way which only time has shown me.
I have my photographs of him, and my memories of the adventures and experiences we shared. There are signs of him all around me even today which brings me a sense of comfort. People say that when you lose someone dear to you, that you never get over it but learn to live with it. I feel that is a true reflection.
Thanks as always for dropping by. Take care and be safe.
