House with Many Names

Salt House, curing house or Whaligoe Station…

The building which still stands on the bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps is nothing more than a ghost of what it used to be. The architecture of what is standing today shares with the witness a potential of what once was and hints at the industry which took place over a century prior.

View from inside of what remains and where the walls still stand.

The remains of this old building are the remnants of a time when the herring fisheries were rife and full of activity and industry. It was used as a salt house or curing house and had several names and uses during its prime. Fish that were brought in to this modest and rustic commercial port would be gutted and packed, protected within salt to last their journey. Once this process was finished, the fish were ready to be transported seven miles northwards to the main area of operations, the coastal town of Wick.

A John O’Groat Journal newspaper article dated back in 1838 mentioned the curing stations in both Whaligoe and Clyth had been completely destroyed during snow storms that lasted about eight weeks. The author of the article also exclaimed how important the two curing houses were and had no doubt they would be rebuilt so they could withstand such weather conditions in the future.

View of the end wall from the outside

Despite the building being fairly sturdy, danger lurked around the corner. For example, in 1853 a woman was killed by falling rock whilst she packed herring in a barrel. A year later, more rocks were falling from the cliff above around the area where women were packing the fish. Two fishermen attempted to make the situation safer by knocking away loose and dangerous overhanging coastal sections due to the evident prospect of more fatalities, but were sadly placed in the Sheriff’s Court for “wanton and malicious mischief”. This was due to the results of their endeavours damaging the Whaligoe Steps and a curing bench.

View of the bink from inside the remains of the house with many names…

The Story So Far…

The first blog was posted on August the 15th, 2021. In all honesty, this website was motivated by a perceived apathy from the Highland Council regarding the overwhelming traffic visiting this wee coastal corner of the Highlands of Scotland, and their lack of concern or to a slightly more alarming degree, even their awareness of what was taking place. The sheer volume of visitors was so bad that property damage was inevitable and sure enough, cause and effect unfolded.

A photo above is a moment in time where the rear end of a campervan demolished an outer wall. The feeling of the wall crashing on to the path was felt throughout the foundations of the residential property. On reflection, it reveals how vulnerable the residents are from further accidents as the outer wall was only a path-width away from being the actual home wall.

Check out further reading as accounts of congestion and evidence of increased volumes of visitor activity created tension, frustration and elements of risk to vehicles and properties in this immediate area.

Photo used in the “Jam…” blog

Previous blogs: “Jam…” – Jam… – Whaligoe Eye

Photo used in the “Deja Vu” blog

“Deja Vu” – Deja Vu – Whaligoe Eye

Photo used in the “Never Judge a Book…” blog

“Never Judge a Book…” Never Judge a Book… – Whaligoe Eye

To give you an insight in to what other productivity has been undertaken to this modest and still evolving online source, there have been two well-received sections showcasing natural photographs and the “Postcards” area.

Check out this link for the ever-growing ‘Nature’ gallery – Nature – Whaligoe Eye

Check here to see photographs of visitors to the Whaligoe Steps – Postcards – Whaligoe Eye

Many thanks to all of you who were happy to strike a pose in and around this beautiful location.

Other blog posts added to this site included content about stones and creativity, a sentimental connection to the Whaligoe Steps, unfolding situations in general, a trip down the coastline with Caithness Seacoast, the arrival of a litter bin to the residents’ car parking area and observations of nature around here. More on these topics as time goes on plus a wonderful rich collection of historically researched materials which I think you may find interesting

So for now, I will bid you a fond farewell and let you know that there is plenty going on behind the scenes which will surface on this website in due course.

Take care and many thanks as always.

Stoned #2

Stonemason’s plaque…
Stonemason working on the Whaligoe Steps during the 18th of September, 2021

The stonemason working on the restoration of the Whaligoe Steps at the time of this blog entry, has been a true and authentic example of an individual learning his craft throughout the decades. Charlie Juhlenski told me that he has been working this trade for around forty three years and loves working with the stone steps here. The pride in his work is evident for all those who descend the Whaligoe Steps, as the results simply speak for themselves.

Due to the volume of visitors, the work can be hampered. I have observed the stonemason dropping by at late hours of the day and night gradually making additions and adjustments to his prior workmanship, as progress of his maintenance continues after several months.

One example of a flight of the Whaligoe Steps repaired and restored by Charlie…

Stone is a fascinating and essential ingredient when surveying the Whaligoe Steps region. Not only is it prominent obviously within the cliffs around this area, and makes up the material of the steps, but is found on the small pebble beaches near the Bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps.

In a previous blog post, I stumbled across a stack of pebbles balanced and beautiful on the pebble shore I just referred to. Check out this wee reminder: A video clip I filmed at the time of the discovery.

Since that find of stacked pebbles, within about two hours the north sea had knocked it down and there was literally no sign that this ever existed. Nature does not take prisoners!

Now then, take a look at this next photograph below… What do you think?

Photo taken on the 15th of September, 2021…

They are not just pebbles, but pebbles which have been scribed on using sharp objects. These pebbles have then been placed on to thin shelves and grooves within the shallow cave walls and subsequently resemble what can only be described as a stone gallery.

According to www.britannica.com, cave art dates back from 40,000 to 14,000 years ago with examples found in Russia, Indonesia to England and France. The first acknowledged piece of Paleolithic (Stone Age) cave painting was discovered in the Altamira Caves, located around the Spanish town of Santillana del Mar, Cantabria.

It would seem that Homo Sapiens have instinctively been motivated to express themselves utilising the environment as a blank canvas in which to scribe, paint or showcase letters or images.

On each visit down the Whaligoe Steps, I see signs and symbols in and around informing me that visitors from far and wide have left a symbolic signature behind. What will you find when you visit?

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.

Never Judge a Book…

Box of books…

Books are fabulous! One downside though of possessing books in these recent times which I feel slightly conflicted about sharing, is how they accumulate to the point of invading precious physical space. I need more room for stuff!

The reason for mentioning this topic is on a sunny morning I put out a box of books at the top of the Whaligoe Steps for visitors to take. Giving them away for free was an interesting experience and you may have thought that I would have seen the entire batch removed. You thought wrong.

As I observed visitors which had turned out in respectable number sauntering around the area here, it became apparent that the congestion issue was still highly relevant. At the time of this blog, it may be at the halfway point of September, but visitors are still making the most of their spare time by experiencing the Whaligoe Steps.

14th September, 2021 – Congestion
14th September, 2021 – Congestion
14th September, 2021 – Congestion

The Highland Council at the time of this blog still say there are no plans to extend the car park.

Thanks to Kirstin Tait Kirstin Tait – Journalist – Home | Facebook of the ‘Press and Journal’ for the recent coverage – Home – Press and Journal

Stoned

7th September, 2021

My stroll down the Whaligoe Steps this morning provided a thought-provoking discovery. On the pebble shore was a stack of stones which has been a hot topic amongst tourists and environmentalists in recent times. I filmed my discovery which you can see in this blog and found myself speaking about what I came across. Apologies if you’re not a fan of commentary – Just turn the volume off.

The stacks of stones which appear in all manner of locations from popular tourist destinations on the Orkney Islands right around the globe to Australia, are examples of humans physically changing a natural environment where varying types of wildlife inhabit.

If you and I put our feet in the metaphorical footwear of a species of wildlife to imagine what this stack of stones was like, it might be comparable to you finding your home rearranged one day to the point that it resembled a pile of rubble!

Stack of stones found on pebble beach this morning

When you delve in to the rabbit hole which is the debate about whether they are good or bad, you stumble across inspiring associations related to spiritual or religious belief and the symbolism connected to mental health wellbeing. In the moment an individual or a group assemble and balance such a striking structure, the process itself quite possibly feels cathartic.

Personally, I see them in the moment as an artistic expression but do understand the significance regarding the sensitivity of the natural world.

It is good to wonder. Take care, be safe.

Wild

Words failed me this morning when I took a wee stroll down the Whaligoe Steps. I saw what looked like a shiny, wet smooth boulder peaking through the surface of the water within the inlet of this immediate coastline. But something in the back of my mind was telling me that no such smooth item existed in that specific bit of sea.

On closer inspection this smooth object was something else and to my utter glee, my internal self reacted by leaping around with ecstatic abandonment and the endorphins were having a party! I was looking at a member of the sea world which was not an oystercatcher, herring gull or a cormorant, but was in fact a seal.

The clip shows the seal having a tired yawn and being quite at peace with the environment. I stood as still as I could on what is known as the bink (the flat base at the bottom of the Whaligoe Steps). The whole experience was special and highly cathartic.

On occasion we talk about the ‘wild’ life, and what it was like walking amongst the ‘wild’ and that sort of thing. When in reality during times like this one, it was anything but ‘wild’ – It was a calm and serene, gradual awakening to a brand new day.

Thanks as always for dropping by and sharing your time watching this seal with me. According to the experts, in this region of the United Kingdom the common seal sightings are of grey seals, but their counterpart is known as the harbour seal – They are rare. I am no expert, but I think this is a grey seal.

Take care and be safe.

Since You Bin Gone…

3rd September, 2021

Yesterday morning at around 08:50, the Highland Council kindly provided the Whaligoe Steps car park with a litter bin.

This is very welcome as with so many individuals visiting this area these days/nights, I am seeing more and more food wrappers, masks and tissues, etc. appearing not only on the Whaligoe Steps but in the car parking area too.

Now that this area has a litter bin, when you are visiting and have that little extra bit of litter lurking in your hand or pocket please feel free to use this new addition. It helps the environment and also adds something positive to the experience for other visitors here.

This morning when I went for a stroll hoping to catch sight of some natural wonders, I took some photographs of litter I found. It gives you and I an idea about how positive this litter bin will prove to be once individuals realise there is one that is close at hand.

4th September, 2021
4th September, 2021
4th September, 2021
4th September, 2021

There is a lot going on regarding this blogging website in the background. Ideas are brewing and motions in directions relating to an updated article on the Whaligoe Steps, other features to the site and strides to get some other facilities and safer infrastructure to this location at the Whaligoe Steps. More to follow.

Thank you so much for the thousands of hits on this website that are being counted; the many, many visitors from around the world and for those who have reached out with some good questions. Apologies for any delays in getting back to you, but I try my best to be as prompt as I can. It is encouraging to know that you care and have some interest in what is being created here.

Take care as always and be safe.

Deja Vu

The amenities/facilities here around the Whaligoe Steps. Exhibit A.

Either right at the very end of 2017 or the turning of 2018, this salt grit bin made an appearance. When the ground gets too icy and dangerous the contents can be used to make conditions a lot safer.

Photo taken this morning – 30th August, 2021

As I meandered back up from the Whaligoe Steps this morning, I walked over to the grit salt bin which is the only (at the time of this blog post) sign of Highland Council presence within their residential car parking area regarding amenities/facilities.

But I digress. I wanted to share with you the continued traffic situation here when it gets busy.

Mexican Stand-Off yesterday (29/08/2021)

With the car park full, a car on the left is waiting patiently for some sensible and safe way to park. As they wait a resident tries to leave their lane (the silver car). Meanwhile a campervan hesitates in the only access point to the residential car parking facility due to an oncoming Jeep squeezing by.

In a recent local newspaper article, residents or visitors were recommended by the Highland Council to call 101 – I quote “Obstruction is a police matter. Residents experiencing obstruction or damage to their property/vehicles should contact the police on 101.”

“The council has no immediate plans to extend the car park at Ulbster but is willing to work with communities where need is identified and funding can be found.”

The article can be found here: Ulbster resident talks of ‘nightmare’ parking problems at Whaligoe Steps on NC500 route (johnogroat-journal.co.uk)

Naturally, with the volume of visitors increasing and the residential car park being full, individuals seek out other parking locations.

27th August, 2021 – Cairn O’Get Parking Bay
29th August, 2021 – Residential lane leading to the residential car park

Take care, and as always thanks for your time. Be safe.

Slippery When Wet…

Cormorant (phalacrocorax carbo) or Shag (phalacrocorax aristotelis) – 29th August, 2021

I will admit that over the last eleven years especially, each and every day I find myself on a steep learning curve. Whether this is applicable to food, health, people or animals and plants.

For some reason it had sneaked in to my subconscious that a ‘Shag’ was some sort of nickname for a Cormorant. So after hanging out this morning with what I thought was a ‘Shag’ watching the overcast grey skies and feeling the gentle tingle of light drizzle on my face, I filmed it for posterity capturing this special moment.

Once I was back in the dry, I reached out for my trusty British bird handbook and flicked over the pages to find that a Cormorant is a separately recognised bird. They both possess different latin names for example: Cormorant – phalacrocorax carbo, Shag – phalacrocorax Aristotelis.

I think the fellow that was happy to sit on the ledge to my left was indeed a Cormorant. I shared a tweet on Twitter which said it was a Shag, but now I am thinking I was wrong. Do you recognise this bird?

Filmed in the morning, 29/08/2021

Before I go, this morning reminded me how slippery underfoot the Whaligoe Steps can get. Two photographs below show how slippery and wet it can get – Please tread carefully if you visit here during or after rainfall.

Taking Steps…

Here are the six sets of steps which make up the zig-zag formation of the Whaligoe Steps, with each section of the ascendency clearly shown – 23rd of August, 2021.

First set of steps starting from the bottom…
Second set of ascending stone steps…
Third set of the Whaligoe Steps as you and I get closer to the top…
Fourth set of stone steps. Do you want to pause for a breath yet?
Fifth set of stone steps… You and I are nearly there.
Final set of stone steps as of August 23rd, 2021…