March Springs with Light and Life

Welcome to part 24 documenting my daily treks down and around Whaligoe Steps. This fortnight covers Monday, March 18th up to and including Sunday, March 31st, 2024.

My intention is to tackle three hundred and sixty five consecutive trips around this region of the northern Scottish coastline, photographing and documenting the changing of the seasons, and to get a better insight into what it must have been like for the fishing industry and general life within this picturesque location over the previous centuries.

There were plenty of ‘new-to-2024’ moments this couple of weeks, like primrose blossoming, Eider duck swimming, pied wagtail in snow or a sighting of a rock pipit among other delights. As usual, I have photographs and also a couple of small clips to share.

March 18th, 2024: Sunlight shimmers on the tides.

Birdlife at Whaligoe Steps is rejoicing in the humble beginnings of Spring. Below is a windswept gull taking in a view.

March 19th, 2024: Clouds formed to create such varying canvas for light. Silhouettes found opportunities to spread their wings.

March 20th, 2024: A fulmar plays peek-a-boo to a clear blue sky, whilst a fishing boat slips by almost unnoticed behind a foreground of daffodils.

March 21st, 2024: Primroses are popping up in the grass and vegetation around Whaligoe Steps. These splashes of colour and vibrancy really add to the ambience of spring.

The moon on this Thursday evening was serene.

March 22nd, 2024: A silhouette whispers to a backdrop of overcast sky.

Below, you can also see the generous flow of the top section of the waterfall. During this fortnight, it has been chilled by a cold spell, windswept and soaked in sunshine.

March 23rd, 2024: Mute your volume for the clip before you play it. Blustery conditions while standing 250 feet up from the North Sea, panning along the horizon from the South section of the coastline view to eventually end up at the waterfall.

March 24th, 2024: On my ascent and wrapping up another daily trek, I suddenly became aware of a beautiful birdsong. During my first daily treks in 2023 tackling what seemed like an impossible challenge, a feathered friend kept me company.

Below, is my first encounter in 2024 of the wee wren which frequents this part of the coastline.

March 25th, 2024: Another fulmar looks on during a chilly morning trek.

There have been some beautiful moon-related moments during this fortnight in late March, and on this occasion I had my camera handy. A bright moon shines above some fluffy cloud formations which add personality to the lights which litter the distant horizon.

March 26th, 2024: What a Tuesday morning this one proved to be! I ventured onwards during a snowfall and was successful in capturing a moment with a local pied wagtail, as primrose felt burdened by the frozen tears of a brief winter flurry.

The sixth flight of Whaligoe Steps which descends directly onto the Bink, communicated the lightweight tone of this last gasp of freezing weather.

March 27th, 2024: Within a few hours, the snow had melted. During a wet Wednesday I was spoilt by the appearance of a skipping rock pipit.

In conjunction with birdwatching, the view was sporadically distracted with primrose flowers bursting through the rustic landscape.

March 28th, 2024: Eider duck according the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, are the heaviest and fastest flying ducks in the United Kingdom – Eider Duck Facts | Somateria Mollissima (rspb.org.uk)

Also below, an example of some waves reaching upwards to grab sunlight.

March 29th, 2024: It really was a ‘Good Friday’, with a radiant daffodil and a couple of contented rabbits enjoying the beginning of an Easter weekend.

Happy Easter!

March 30th, 2024: Plenty of early morning sunshine compliments the wildlife and flowers. Beautiful bloom and glowing plumage.

Visitors were certainly out and about around Whaligoe Steps as minor congestion built up outside my window. My parking space was used by those who needed it, and there was an active and positive atmosphere in the air.

March 31st, 2024: Easter Sunday began with a beautiful sunrise, as the moon was off to my right. It’s such a special ambience when both the sun and the moon come out to play simultaneously.

I wasn’t the only spectator who had the good fortune to witness this sunrise…

So that’s another fortnight covering my daily trek challenge, as I walk down and around Whaligoe Steps. Aiming for 365 consecutive days of documenting my findings and observations. Spring has most certainly arrived, and there are many examples of wildlife and flora showing signs of new life around these parts.

There are more signs of life on the North Sea too, as the tides are calmer and the sun is brighter.

Traffic in the car park and the only access point has significantly increased, so please keep that in mind if you’re planning to visit.

Thought I’d share this observation from March 31st. Not only more vehicles on the roads around here and in the North Sea with boating activity, but also an aeroplane or two in the sky.

Before I leave you with this blog entry, if you have a moment I filmed a relaxing clip as I sat on the pebble shore with the tide out. In the foreground are rock pools as your eye travels out to sea…

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Beautiful Nights and Daily Flights

Welcome to part 23 of my coverage from daily treks down and around Whaligoe Steps. Since May 1st, 2023, I’ve been taking photos and walking around this wee local region of the northern Scottish coastline.

Each and every day has been captured in one way or another for posterity, and has included storms of various names, snow, sunrises, wildlife and various silhouettes, plus the varying landmarks like the old Salt House, the boat winch, the plaques erected by the stonemason Charlie Juhlenski, and much more.

Generally, this fortnight from Monday, March 4th, 2024, up to and including Sunday, March 17th, 2024, was about the seabird population feeling at home on rocky ledges and flying. Signs of spring are really happening too.

Without further ado, let’s get to the action…

March 4th, 2024: A clear sky provided an inviting environment for fulmars and seagulls alike…

March 5th, 2024: Quite a contrast during this specific trek, as winds pushed the North Sea into dramatic poses.

March 6th, 2024: During this fortnight, the Bink (grassy platform at the base of the six flights of steps) was muddy and slippery. Below is the old Salt House and some general ambience.

March 7th, 2024: Back to some landscape bathing in sunshine. The view looking northwards along the coastline.

March 8th, 2024: Happy ‘International Women’s Day’

To acknowledge this special day, I took photographs of the two stone plaques celebrating Etta Juhle and her significant contribution to the Whaligoe Steps. Her son, Charlie was the stonemason who had these incorporated to the area, and has also made an invaluable contribution to the state they’re in when visitors drop by.

(There are blogs dating back to 2022, which add references to Charlie’s appreciated and marvellous handywork and trade skillset).

March 9th, 2024: Captured flying seabird silhouettes in a sky full of battle with sunlight and cloud.

March 10th, 2024: Personally, I feel I occasionally capture a photograph of something which seems to exhibit a tremendous presence in texture.

It doesn’t happen a lot, but below is an example of the North Sea being my model, and within the waves and tides a particular atmosphere is presented in the shapes and shading.

March 10th, 2024: During this particular day, I was able to position myself on the pebble shore and caught a short video clip of coastal ambience…

March 11th, 2024: Awaiting an abundance of new life as spring parades the catwalk, it’s a game of patience in some respects…

March 12th, 2024: “Get off my ledge!”

March 13th, 2024: These last couple of months have provided some beautiful skies. Below, among the glare of sunshine is a swooping seabird celebrating what it is to have freedom and wings.

March 14th, 2024: On top of Whaligoe Steps you may find a landscape crawling with wildlife. The humble rabbit, chomping on grass and rather alert to predators goes about a natural business.

March 15th, 2024: Thus far, I’ve witnessed a solitary daffodil plant located in the area of the Whaligoe Steps. Beautiful and vibrant yellow flowers break up the rustic landscape.

March 16th, 2024: A sunrise begins an ascendancy among clouds within a bright blue sky.

March 17th, 2024: To complete this blog entry, for Sunday, March 17th, 2024… The photos below showcase the trail descending the Whaligoe Steps, breaking up your journey with each flight and section.

If you were to tackle this physical course, on this day, the landscape you see below is what you’d be walking amongst.

Beginning your descent from the top left hand corner and letting your eye flow to the right, a track with grooves and gravel beneath your feet. This is then followed by a short series of stone steps.

Then you tackle the six flights of Whaligoe Steps…

Many thanks for your support, generosity of time and kindness, as always I like to acknowledge how much it means.

I hope that I get to share the next instalment of my daily trek challenge with you as I aim to achieve an entire 365 consecutive days walking down and around the Whaligoe Steps.

I just wanted to share this wee video clip of a wagtail, spotted at the base of the landfall here at Whaligoe Steps. Filmed on March 15th, 2024.

Until next time, take care and stay safe.

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Recap!…

January 16th, 2022…

If I’m watching a television series and there is a gap between watching the episodes, I find myself thankful when the creators of such a show provide a recap. That magical reminder of the characters and their story arc, the prompt to pick up where I left off whilst watching avidly on prior occasions.

So here it is for those of you who are new to the “Whaligoe Eye” project (and there has been a significant increase of visitors to this humble website), covering life on and around the remarkable Whaligoe Steps, here in the north Highlands of Scotland.

This recap also applies to those who have dropped by in the past thanks to my coverage of Stonemasonry undertaken by Charles Juhlenski on the Steps; the blogs covering my thirteen day monitoring of a grey seal pup here at Whaligoe Steps; the coverage of ongoing congestion and overwhelming traffic issues which have plagued the local infrastructure here causing a significant amount of anxiety and stress for visitors and locals alike, or general curiosity after the welcome social media interest in my poetry and promotion of this website.

Although the history of Whaligoe Steps can be dated back via documented sources to around 1640, the Steps we can witness at the time of this blog entry are commonly associated to the sterling investment of Captain David Brodie. He commissioned around 330 Caithness flagstones to be set in the cliff face to provide a robust pathway down to what is known as the Bink, which is situated at the base of the zig-zagging descent. The year most commonly associated with Captain Brodie and his intent on creating a better walkway is around 1791.

I’m not going to enter into a whole chronological history lesson right now, that can wait for the book which I’m researching and constantly working on. Just know that living here for over thirty years, I count my blessings being entertained, stimulated and marvelling at the world around me regarding Whaligoe Steps. So let me take this opportunity to share the story thus far dating back only a few months when I kickstarted this modest blogging website.

(Social media screenshot) Coverage at the time of the dangerous numbers of visitors overwhelmed the immediate infrastructure at Whaligoe Steps

Due to the frustrating lack of acknowledgement by the Highland Council to the plight facing residents and visitors to Whaligoe Steps over the past five years (!), I took the plunge and paid for this website in August, 2021. For one reason or another, nobody else was in a situation locally to provide a sensible and socially aware approach to bringing attention to the evident health and safety risks of residents and visitors here.

After being informed by other residents of constant minor vehicle-related incidents in the residents carpark, or near misses to pedestrians in relation to the significant increase to traffic either mounting the kerb, or trying to negotiate a singular access point which was not built for purpose of this magnitude, I decided to do something about it! The proverbial cherry on top of the cake arrived nearly a year prior, when in September, 2020, my outer wall was knocked down by an impressive sized campervan! My stress levels hit an all time high.

Residents carpark totally full in August, 2021 – No space for residents or anyone wishing to visit residents…

As of the middle of January, 2022, I’m sad to update one and all with how nothing has changed regarding this specific concern. Mind you, in fairness to the Highland Council they did eventually provide a well-used dustbin for refuse collection as we had at that point no facilities other than a yellow grit bin! The rubbish bin is a silver lining to what has been a huge disappointment thus far.

I took a screenshot of a relevant online meeting the Highland Council orchestrated regarding significant increases to tourism in the Highlands and the impacts thereof. This meeting was held on September 29th (2021) and apart from their back-slapping over providing wardens to assess and data-collect, they also recognised that lessons in social media would be beneficial.

Despite only one local Councillor venturing out to meet me and discuss or listen to my woes, I have emailed all others from the local Ward to no avail. The warden I witnessed on a couple of occasions who visited the carpark and immediate area when no traffic and disruption was unfolding, made no overtures of communication or data-collection from myself or those who I have spoken with.

Sharing this with you is surprisingly cathartic, so I extend my humble thanks to you for listening.

So the first blog entry was on August the 15th, 2021, reporting on the chaos of another year busy with visitors to Whaligoe Steps, and tales of being unable to park in allocated spaces as they were full. As the days rolled by in a blur of constant monitoring and anxiety, the website began to take on other elements of what makes this community so interesting and precious.

Photo taken thanks to a trip with Caithness Seacoast in 2021… From the perspective of the north sea looking under the Bink.

There was a trip taken with Caithness Seacoast in 2021 which added to the learning curve regarding the relationship of Whaligoe Steps in context to the coastline leading to Wick. During this time I was learning about the abundant wildlife around Whaligoe Steps, and raising awareness regarding the ominous situation on my doorstep with congestion and volume of visitors by talking to some local newspapers…

“Whaligoe Eye” by this point was showcasing galleries representing Nature – Whaligoe Eye plus photographs of visitors who were happy to be added to Postcards – Whaligoe Eye

Another highlight for me was getting the opportunity to talk to the Stonemason Charles Juhlenski and see him at work. For several months he worked hard repairing and maintaining a couple of flights from the total of six which make up Whaligoe Steps.

Before the end of 2021, on my regular treks down the Steps I was privileged to discover a baby grey seal on the pebble shore. For thirteen days I monitored the transition as the white fur gave way to a grey coat, and the general confidence the pup developed as it became aware of its surroundings. Two blogs covered this experience and even now I am so warm-hearted by the whole encounter.

I think that will do for what was supposed to be a condensed recap of the past few months here at Whaligoe Steps.

The positive feedback and support from local folk as well as those beautiful people from around the globe, from Australia to Africa, Canada and the U.S., to many other interesting parts of the Earth, have been at times sincerely overwhelming. I thank you one and all.

It would be remiss of me not to say that your continued support simply visiting and reading some of the content; following the various social media enterprises associated with this website; and those who subscribed to this venture via the online form, are very much appreciated and add to the unity of cultural insight and awareness of this area of the Highlands coastline in Scotland. You also get to peek behind a curtain and relate to community impact in the face of a perceived apathy and uncomfortable political situation. I share my humble gratitude with you and look forward to sharing more of this unfolding true story with you.

This year, 2022, is looking like it will be one truly insane time! Where unassuming visitors and residents already battle-weary, will be confronting another dangerous and chaotic arena of feverish activities. Not only is access for emergency services in question, but sadly the constant call for updates within the infrastructure here to cater for toilet facilities, better signage, safer conditions for pedestrians, better parking allocation, and perhaps some communication/transparency from the Highland Council with the residents regarding intentions or plans which may be ahead.

Be assured that it’s my intention to continue working on updates for this website throughout 2022. Covering as much of the evolving landscape, wildlife, revealing the history as I research it, and capturing the carnage which is to follow as the months creep forward.

Thank You again, you’re amazing. Take care and stay safe.

Gary.

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Slippery When Wet…

Cormorant (phalacrocorax carbo) or Shag (phalacrocorax aristotelis) – 29th August, 2021

I will admit that over the last eleven years especially, each and every day I find myself on a steep learning curve. Whether this is applicable to food, health, people or animals and plants.

For some reason it had sneaked in to my subconscious that a ‘Shag’ was some sort of nickname for a Cormorant. So after hanging out this morning with what I thought was a ‘Shag’ watching the overcast grey skies and feeling the gentle tingle of light drizzle on my face, I filmed it for posterity capturing this special moment.

Once I was back in the dry, I reached out for my trusty British bird handbook and flicked over the pages to find that a Cormorant is a separately recognised bird. They both possess different latin names for example: Cormorant – phalacrocorax carbo, Shag – phalacrocorax Aristotelis.

I think the fellow that was happy to sit on the ledge to my left was indeed a Cormorant. I shared a tweet on Twitter which said it was a Shag, but now I am thinking I was wrong. Do you recognise this bird?

Filmed in the morning, 29/08/2021

Before I go, this morning reminded me how slippery underfoot the Whaligoe Steps can get. Two photographs below show how slippery and wet it can get – Please tread carefully if you visit here during or after rainfall.