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House with Many Names

Salt House, curing house or Whaligoe Station…

The building which still stands on the bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps is nothing more than a ghost of what it used to be. The architecture of what is standing today shares with the witness a potential of what once was and hints at the industry which took place over a century prior.

View from inside of what remains and where the walls still stand.

The remains of this old building are the remnants of a time when the herring fisheries were rife and full of activity and industry. It was used as a salt house or curing house and had several names and uses during its prime. Fish that were brought in to this modest and rustic commercial port would be gutted and packed, protected within salt to last their journey. Once this process was finished, the fish were ready to be transported seven miles northwards to the main area of operations, the coastal town of Wick.

A John O’Groat Journal newspaper article dated back in 1838 mentioned the curing stations in both Whaligoe and Clyth had been completely destroyed during snow storms that lasted about eight weeks. The author of the article also exclaimed how important the two curing houses were and had no doubt they would be rebuilt so they could withstand such weather conditions in the future.

View of the end wall from the outside

Despite the building being fairly sturdy, danger lurked around the corner. For example, in 1853 a woman was killed by falling rock whilst she packed herring in a barrel. A year later, more rocks were falling from the cliff above around the area where women were packing the fish. Two fishermen attempted to make the situation safer by knocking away loose and dangerous overhanging coastal sections due to the evident prospect of more fatalities, but were sadly placed in the Sheriff’s Court for “wanton and malicious mischief”. This was due to the results of their endeavours damaging the Whaligoe Steps and a curing bench.

View of the bink from inside the remains of the house with many names…

Seal the Deal

Grey seal (Halichoerus grypus)

At the very beginning of August, 2021, I saw a seal down at Whaligoe Steps. Naturally I felt thrilled with this observation but would not dare to hope that it would become a resident. Over the many years, sightings of seal at Whaligoe Steps have been fairly regular and commonplace, so to guess that this latest sighting would be something special was a little too much to hope for.

Grey seal (Halichoerus grypus)

To my utter glee and astonishment this sighting of a solitary seal was just the beginning of a new chapter for me and my wildlife observations. Undertaking my trusty research I found out that both harbour seals and grey seals were not unusual to these coastline regions, but the more common sighting and presence belongs to the grey seal.

Pair of grey seals (Halichoerus grypus)

Two grey seals were sighted a few weeks later which has filled me with real enthusiasm that they could well be here to stay! At the time of this blog entry, October 17th, 2021, I can honestly say that regular sightings of a third grey seal has sealed the deal that at least for a while, Whaligoe Steps has resident grey seals which are putting on a beautiful natural display for the visitors.

Thanks to The Wildlife Trust I can remind you that grey seals are protected in Britain under the Conservation of Seals Act 1970 and the Marine (Scotland) Act 2010. Grey seal | The Wildlife Trusts

Video clip of three grey seals…

According to OneKindPlanet – Animal Facts, Education & Inspiration the grey seal is the largest land breeding mammal you will find in the United Kingdom. When out seal-watching I can safely say the statistics regarding their activity is accurate too as the grey seal can remain underwater for around fifteen to sixteen minutes, but more often surface after anywhere from five to ten minutes.

Grey seal (Halichoerus grypus)

Despite the tourist season normally being all over by now, the visitors to Whaligoe Steps remain steadfast. Even today as I stood watching the seals going about their business, I observed many individuals wrapped up warm in various Winter-themed attire coming and going.

The seal stone that was hidden at Whaligoe Steps on October the 6th, was found yesterday and moved to a new location where more visitors were likely to stumble across it. From that location on some coastal rock which jutted out and utilised as a popular position in which to watch the seals, I have observed the seal stone now out and about on a journey to somewhere else!

The seal stone hidden in and amongst the coastal rock one sunny day in October…

If the family or individual who picked up the seal stone had a spare moment to let me know where it is now, I would love to hear about it. Many thanks in advance.

As always, please take care and be safe. Thank you for your time.

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Not Enough Hours In the Day!

Via one of the social media resources associated with this website, a lovely individual ‘tagged’ me in their communication relating to activities of women back in the day carrying the herring up the Whaligoe Steps and included a wonderful historic picture. It reminded me that as I go about my historical research in conjunction with the new-to-me discoveries in relation to the wonderfully rich selection of nature here at Whaligoe Steps, that I have not really divulged much in the way of findings.

“A Canny Countryside”

The above photograph is of my second edition copy of the book “A Canny Countryside” by John Horne, originally published back in 1896. This lovely book doesn’t directly name Whaligoe or the surrounding area, but is known to be describing and sharing the observation of life here by the author.

With a keen wink and a nudge, former Reverend John Horne eloquently describes the landscape and environment of “Knockdry”, but thanks to a John O’Groat Journal (local newspaper) article from 1907 which identifies that all local people knew the book was all about Whaligoe, I simply had to snap up a copy! It is beautifully written and a fascinating insight.

The history lessons keep coming hard and fast as the relationship with Whaligoe Steps and smuggling goes ever deeper and more curious. My research in to the world of smuggling during the late 1700s through to the early 1900s has been quite eye-opening to say the least!

You would perhaps think that the smuggling of whisky was the core and main focus. In some respects you would be correct, as an article by Alison Campsie for The Scotsman noted in 2020 – during the 1820s up to around 14,000 illegal whisky stills were closed down on a yearly basis. As it happens tobacco, brandy and wine were also guilty pleasures too expensive for mortal persons to consume in an affordable fashion. Plenty to be smuggling via the coastline of such an isolated and remote region of the mainland.

The emphasis of these smuggling-based networks is recognised widely due to the Act of Union between England and Scotland in 1707 when tax and excise was the new system for such trade. The inhabitants of Whaligoe and surrounding pockets of society had already established a reputation for being unruly, rough around the edges and generally a law upon themselves, so new stipulated rules from the English was always going to be out of touch or unwelcome! If you include the expense and the greed of the rule-makers to take their cut of the profits, this arrangement was never going to end well.

As always, thanks for your time. Please note that you can subscribe to this blogging website now if you wish, and of course you can find us on Facebook: Whaligoe Eye – Home | Facebook or on Twitter: Whaligoe Eye (@WhaligoeEye) / Twitter and there is a YouTube channel these days too – Whaligoe Eye – YouTube

Boat Winch

The tide is out and in the distance is a boat winch…

When you visit the Whaligoe Steps, you might well see a rusty old manual boat winch standing unassumingly near the pebble shore. One thing is for sure, it gets quite a view of the north sea and wildlife activity down there!

They were made with different designs but all had the same motive in mind, to haul a boat from one point to another. The reasons you would want to move a boat are plenty and will be covered over time as this humble tribute to the Whaligoe Steps grows in content.

Path down a slippery (when wet) slope towards the existing boat winch…

Here are a couple of photographs showing the boat winch in the state it is in today.

Is it just me, or does that look like a face?

The existing boat winch has certainly seen better days, but worthy of note is that this little robust piece of engineering had a Brother. Alas, the other boat winch is no longer around and back in the day would have been sighted at the base of the steps which zig-zag down the cliff.

Location where the other boat winch used to be.

There are still old photographs which show the other boat winch in existence down at the Whaligoe Steps. Also available when you go foraging are some interesting insights about the humble boat winch. For example, in the publication known as ‘East of Fife Record’ back in April of 1878, an article proudly proclaimed the boat winch to be “Iron Man” due to the fact it didn’t damage the nets or any other boat-worthy gear, plus it was the easiest to work and the most powerful in comparison to any other methods.

The humble boat winch.

If you take a good look at the concrete base on which this fellow dwells, you may be able to make out a date scribed in it: December the 5th, 1899…

The fishing industry is a fascinating area to explore and when you look at the history of it all, you get a real sense of the development and scope over time. One place I would recommend as a starting point if you have time: Scottish Fisheries Museum – Home Page (scotfishmuseum.org)

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.

Star pondering over where the other boat winch went?

Purrfect…

There is a lot of life at the Whaligoe Steps. Everything from snails, spiders, earwigs and other insect life to various seagulls, oystercatchers, redshanks, humans and seals. But I have not really shared with you apart from the odd social media moment, the local feline presence.

Let me introduce you to the two main attractions at the time of this blog – “Star” and “Ludwig”…

“Star”

Star enjoys adventure, people and roaming around the Whaligoe Steps. You will more than likely see Star on a visit to the zig-zagging Caithness flagstone steps, as the temptation for exploration and the curious nature that dwells within gets too much. A domesticated cat which is happy outdoors to forage amongst the local environment and soften up visitors in the hope of some fussing.

Star getting a head rub via a fence post…

The second feline attraction in the immediate area of the Whaligoe Steps belongs to a fine fellow called Ludwig.

“Ludwig”

He is also a domesticated cat, but very different from Star. Where Star can be found out and about on an adventure, Ludwig would rather be indoors thank you. Living as an indoor feline, he likes home comforts and the less exerting lifestyle. Mind you, whether he has the world record for sleeping the longest or not, he still enjoys moments of tummy-bathing when the sun is streaming through the windows, or an occasional tap ‘n’ nibble of a shoe lace or a drinking straw.

Ludwig wrestling a shoe lace…

If you’re wondering what would happen if they met each other, ponder no more as they have gazed at each other on several occasions through glass. Thankfully, they seem to be quite amicable with each other with no hard feelings expressed whatsoever.

Ludwig looking at life with a new perspective…
Star about to set off on another adventure…

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.

Thank You

People are an integral ingredient when it comes to life here at Whaligoe Steps. You would find on a visit to this location an immediate neighbourhood comprising of six households in total situated near or around the residential car park. These people live here and go about their daily business.

Photograph taken in September, 2019

Thinking about the Whaligoe Steps, you have those people passing through (visitors) and you have people in the responsible roles of decision-making, who are at the time of this blog post attempting to negotiate the best strategy to improve the infrastructure and empower a positive experience for the visitors and residents alike.

Tourism Committee Meeting – September 29th, 2021

I sat through two and a half hours of a meeting regarding the topic of tourism in the Highlands of Scotland, with decision-makers saying how impressive they had been so far in relation to tackling the evident surge and overwhelming arrival of visitors to varying popular destinations.

Nobody related to this significant meeting had reached out to me or anyone I know who is directly connected to the Whaligoe Steps, so it is with pure good luck (and continued humble thanks to Margaret Meek from the “NC500 The Land Weeps”) that I can now share my more informed thoughts on developments.

The committee were smitten with their campaign of communication with communities and visitors but as I sit here, after emails were sent to all members of the Council Ward: 03 – Wick and East Caithness, only Councillor Jill Tilt has made overtures of interest and enthusiasm toward understanding what local people perceive to be improvements to the infrastructure. It was very much appreciated and I wish to share a humble THANK YOU.

Councillor Jill Tilt in her capacity as a new member to the Council Ward visited me today to better gain insight to the logistics for residents and visitors negotiating the access and car parking. This Councillor is the only one to have sent a reply to my initial email, and I have to say that I was thoroughly impressed with her approach which was both professional and sympathetic.

Due to various reasons, Willie Mackay did not email me but has dropped by in person to visit the Whaligoe Steps where it was evident he was assessing the location. Not one syllable has been sent my way from Andrew Sinclair (emailed on the 29th of August) or Raymond Bremner (emailed on the 1st of September) who are the other two Councillors for this Ward.

I like to dwell if at all possible on positive aspects that go on behind the scenes. With this in mind and if you’re happy to indulge me I would love to share my gratitude to the many individuals who have made this new “Whaligoe Eye” experience so rewarding.

I mentioned the good lady earlier, but THANK YOU to Margaret Meek once again as without her experience in matters relating to infrastructure and politics, I would have still been twirling about like a lost sheep!

This website has grown so much in just six weeks and one section I really enjoy sharing is the “Postcards” area. The above photograph is a memory of an encounter with visitors who spent some time talking and listening and it is merely one example. They were lovely strangers to meet, and what a location to meet new people!

Holding a camera and capturing a moment out to sea, this visitor managed to negotiate seaweed and slippery pebbles and made it look easy! His fiancée stood watching from a distance and the two of them were so kind and interested in the area.

I would like to say THANK YOU to George Walker for emailing and sharing his photography of the Whaligoe Steps, and his advice relating to the art of photography. If you have a moment, check out georgewalkerphotography.co.uk

I have received quite a few emails in recent weeks and I know some of you would rather I did not mention you by name, but this is a THANK YOU for your feedback regarding all manner of aspects connected to Whaligoe Eye.

Here are some overdue moments of gratitude to some folk who I emailed a few weeks ago regarding quotes for a future piece I am working on…

THANK YOU to Catherine over at Where To Stay, Eat, Shop & Explore, Highlands Of Scotland (truehighlands.com)

THANK YOU to Susan over at A Highland Blend – | Promoting the north Highlands of Scotland

THANK YOU to Tim over at Scotland Off the Beaten Track – An honest travel guide to the best of Scotland (sobt.co.uk)

Before I go, here is a bit of fun I had with some art-based software. I had an old photograph of Whaligoe Steps which I played with…

THANK YOU for your time and as always, take care and be safe.

Metal Orchids Bathed in Gold

My imagination is running rife since setting up a Twitter account and finding many likeminded creative souls. At the time of assembling my thoughts with this blog post, my @floodland08 account has around 340 followers of varying backgrounds. Each and every one is an individual with an identity unique to them, and each individual has their own level of sensitivity, life experience and perspective on what unfolds around them.

Thank you so much for taking the time to follow a guy who likes to daydream, likes to think, likes to express and likes to share what he likes. You have made an individual living on a remote part of the northern Scottish coastline very happy by spending a second to click ‘Follow’.

My creativity has identified something this very morning and through a lens of art-driven narrative, describes the sight as “Metal Orchids Bathed in Gold”

Photographs taken on Oct. 4th, 2021

Energy is a ‘hot’ topic right now for so many reasons. The engineering behind such a challenge is also worthy of respect and recognition. Welcome to the north sea and a distant wind farm situated within view from the Whaligoe Steps.

This offshore wind farm is located approximately thirteen kilometres from the Caithness coastline, and goes by the name of Beatrice. In June, 2019, after seven years of development and three years of actual construction, Beatrice is operated and maintained from its base at Wick Harbour. ​Consisting of eighty-four wind turbines, this offshore entity is capable of providing enough wind powered electricity for up to four hundred and fifty thousand homes!

These wind turbines are mighty in size and power. They stand proud on the horizon when you look out from the bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps looking out across the north sea. They may be bothersome to some, but they are also fully functional and providing invaluable energy to the grid which supplies many homes with electricity.

It is a feat which is currently recognised as the second largest wind farm in Scotland.

The sunrise which beckoned me down the Whaligoe Steps on this morning provided me with a new perspective on these amazing metallic structures, and once again I sincerely thank the Steps for inviting such breath taking views. A fine example of nature and technology merging to create a vision of synergy.

Welcome to the Beatrice offshore wind farm. Welcome to “Metal Orchids Bathed in Gold”

Sunrise, 4th of October, 2021

Student of Life

Since starting this journey with a blogging website, I realised how much I am learning and what a steep curve this is proving to be.

Not only is there the principle of understanding how to set up the site with all the logistical elements which come in to play but then there is the relationship with social media, how to use social media in conjunction with this pandora’s box; the art of photography in which to translate the passion I have for the Whaligoe Steps; the articulation of words and how to present them in the realms of the internet and technology; the varying technological devices which can be utilised and how to get them to work for me the most efficiently; how to communicate with other people, and which people to communicate with; the vast documentation on historical content for the Whaligoe Steps and relevant subject matter therein; the unfolding knowledge of the wonderful wildlife which has inhabited this area for as long as I have known…

I am a student of Life I pondered.

This learning curve is heartily welcomed mind you and so the journey continues. Let me update you with what I have been up to over the last few weeks.

Picture of the Wick Society in celebration…

In 2001, the Whaligoe Steps was placed in to public care officially, and thereafter understandably celebrated by Iain Sutherland and the Wick Society. I reached out to the Wick Society back on the 26th of August, 2021 to make enquiries about research and to further clarify where they stand regarding the Whaligoe Steps today. Sadly, they have not replied. It has been longer than a month and to have received not even a courtesy email I will endeavour to pursue again. Watch this space.

The local Community Council known as the Tannach & District have been in communication since I reached out. The date set for their meeting was not convenient for me so I dutifully shared my apology. It appears this meeting was postponed regardless, so I will be hoping that the invitation remains open for my attendance when it is rescheduled. Why is it important for me to make reference to this in this blog post? Well, the local Community Council will have information about possible developments to the immediate infrastructure here after being shown the congestion and overwhelming impact to the car parking facilities and residential area.

Snapshot of the Tannach & District Community Council official website

The student of Life within me is learning patience, and after all don’t people say this is a virtue? As I compose this blog post I am fully aware that other issues like ‘Brexit’ and the obvious grip on the globe which is COVID-19 are truly relevant points which assist in slowing a public process down. I cannot fight these aspects, but simply understand them and take this ride to where it will take me.

Just so you know, I am thankful that you are also interested and taking the journey with me. Together we will learn a great many things, and perhaps you too can consider yourself a student of Life?

Snapshot of a newspaper article from July 11th, 1878…

The above clip regards my tireless research in to some very interesting and thought-provoking historical information regarding the area on which I’m focussed. My initial plan was to assemble some insight and highlights if you will, about the Whaligoe Steps and take you on a journey through chronological order with the time-line and my narrative providing you with a quick and easy overview. Oh my, was I naïve.

I type this with a wry smirk on my face as this pursuit has taken me down a great many rabbit holes. You will hear no complaint from me as I enjoy learning new things you luggers or lubbers! So for now, understand that I am keeping very busy indeed and will share all sorts of good with you in due course. The sheer wealth of information and rich history is so interesting that I am now declaring this to be worthy of a book. Yet again, watch this space.

Time for a gratuitous photograph of a sunrise I experienced this very morning…

Photo taken on the 30th of September, 2021

I take a relaxed and enjoyable stroll down the Whaligoe Steps most days, and as a result find the cardio is not the only benefit! I am understanding slowly but surely the wildlife habits and routines. I am still chasing the elusive photograph of the oystercatcher though; still keeping an eye on a pair of resident grey seals; watching cormorants/shags ducking and diving or merely perched on cliff edges; pondering over the guillemots and their wonderful ways of bopping on the surface of the north sea; distinguishing between kittiwakes and herring gulls as they go about their daily adventures plus so much more…

In fact this is a good place to wind things up for this blog post. I’ll leave the last word to ‘Henry’ the herring gull…

Taken on the 29th of September, 2021

The Story So Far…

The first blog was posted on August the 15th, 2021. In all honesty, this website was motivated by a perceived apathy from the Highland Council regarding the overwhelming traffic visiting this wee coastal corner of the Highlands of Scotland, and their lack of concern or to a slightly more alarming degree, even their awareness of what was taking place. The sheer volume of visitors was so bad that property damage was inevitable and sure enough, cause and effect unfolded.

A photo above is a moment in time where the rear end of a campervan demolished an outer wall. The feeling of the wall crashing on to the path was felt throughout the foundations of the residential property. On reflection, it reveals how vulnerable the residents are from further accidents as the outer wall was only a path-width away from being the actual home wall.

Check out further reading as accounts of congestion and evidence of increased volumes of visitor activity created tension, frustration and elements of risk to vehicles and properties in this immediate area.

Photo used in the “Jam…” blog

Previous blogs: “Jam…” – Jam… – Whaligoe Eye

Photo used in the “Deja Vu” blog

“Deja Vu” – Deja Vu – Whaligoe Eye

Photo used in the “Never Judge a Book…” blog

“Never Judge a Book…” Never Judge a Book… – Whaligoe Eye

To give you an insight in to what other productivity has been undertaken to this modest and still evolving online source, there have been two well-received sections showcasing natural photographs and the “Postcards” area.

Check out this link for the ever-growing ‘Nature’ gallery – Nature – Whaligoe Eye

Check here to see photographs of visitors to the Whaligoe Steps – Postcards – Whaligoe Eye

Many thanks to all of you who were happy to strike a pose in and around this beautiful location.

Other blog posts added to this site included content about stones and creativity, a sentimental connection to the Whaligoe Steps, unfolding situations in general, a trip down the coastline with Caithness Seacoast, the arrival of a litter bin to the residents’ car parking area and observations of nature around here. More on these topics as time goes on plus a wonderful rich collection of historically researched materials which I think you may find interesting

So for now, I will bid you a fond farewell and let you know that there is plenty going on behind the scenes which will surface on this website in due course.

Take care and many thanks as always.

Stoned #2

Stonemason’s plaque…
Stonemason working on the Whaligoe Steps during the 18th of September, 2021

The stonemason working on the restoration of the Whaligoe Steps at the time of this blog entry, has been a true and authentic example of an individual learning his craft throughout the decades. Charlie Juhlenski told me that he has been working this trade for around forty three years and loves working with the stone steps here. The pride in his work is evident for all those who descend the Whaligoe Steps, as the results simply speak for themselves.

Due to the volume of visitors, the work can be hampered. I have observed the stonemason dropping by at late hours of the day and night gradually making additions and adjustments to his prior workmanship, as progress of his maintenance continues after several months.

One example of a flight of the Whaligoe Steps repaired and restored by Charlie…

Stone is a fascinating and essential ingredient when surveying the Whaligoe Steps region. Not only is it prominent obviously within the cliffs around this area, and makes up the material of the steps, but is found on the small pebble beaches near the Bink at the base of the Whaligoe Steps.

In a previous blog post, I stumbled across a stack of pebbles balanced and beautiful on the pebble shore I just referred to. Check out this wee reminder: A video clip I filmed at the time of the discovery.

Since that find of stacked pebbles, within about two hours the north sea had knocked it down and there was literally no sign that this ever existed. Nature does not take prisoners!

Now then, take a look at this next photograph below… What do you think?

Photo taken on the 15th of September, 2021…

They are not just pebbles, but pebbles which have been scribed on using sharp objects. These pebbles have then been placed on to thin shelves and grooves within the shallow cave walls and subsequently resemble what can only be described as a stone gallery.

According to www.britannica.com, cave art dates back from 40,000 to 14,000 years ago with examples found in Russia, Indonesia to England and France. The first acknowledged piece of Paleolithic (Stone Age) cave painting was discovered in the Altamira Caves, located around the Spanish town of Santillana del Mar, Cantabria.

It would seem that Homo Sapiens have instinctively been motivated to express themselves utilising the environment as a blank canvas in which to scribe, paint or showcase letters or images.

On each visit down the Whaligoe Steps, I see signs and symbols in and around informing me that visitors from far and wide have left a symbolic signature behind. What will you find when you visit?

Thanks as always for your time, take care and be safe.